French. Creole.
CBD: 129 Camp . 504-553-6738. Map.
Lunch Monday-Friday. Dinner seven nights.
Dressy.
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
The most ambitious restaurant to open in New Orleans since its nearby neighbor Restaurant August, Le Foret ignores the alleged decline in interest in formal, exacting dining. Its beautiful dining room, spectacular presentations and service, and an impressive and growing wine cellar gladden the soul of those of us who enjoy dining in the grand style.
WHY IT'S GOOD
The dinner begins with not one but two rounds of amuse-bouche offerings. There will be another later, after the dessert, and even a madeleine as you exit. In between, the courses are inventive without being contrived. Familiar foostuffs--most of them locally produced, with the sources named--emerge from the kitchen with their flavors maximized. (It helps that not just the ingredients but the preparations are kept in sync with the seasons.) Timing, wine service, and attitude are calculated to turn the meal into an occasion.
BACKSTORY
After almost a year of advance ballyhoo, Le Foret opened in October 2009. The building, despite its highly visible location, has been empty so long that most Orleanians can't immediately picture it. For decades until it closed in the 1970s, Ralph's Arden Bar occupied the ground floor. Owner Margaret Schexnayder (in the oil business in Cajun country) bought the place and renovated all three floors in high style. Chef Jimmy Corwell is noteworthy for having achieved the designation of Master Chef. The dining room is managed by Danny Millan, whose past includes stints at August, Brennan's, the old Sazerac, Emeril's, and other first-class dining rooms. Even the waiters look familiar from other restaurants.
DINING ROOM
The main dining room has a modern but rich style in a space with dimensions from another era. The oversize windows look out into the intersection of Camp and Common, with a striking antique brownstone building on one side and a stark parking garage on the other. The curtains are wide open, allowing the streetlights to pour inside. I can't decide whether I like this or not. The ambient sound level is a touch on the loud side when the room is full. Upstairs, the rooms are quieter. On the top floor is a dining room for about fifty and an apartment; the possibilities of this are intriguing.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
The menu changes frequently.
"Salad, soup and sandwich" (a complimentary amuse-bouche).
Artichoke and shrimp soufflee.
Oysters Rockefeller.
Crabmeat and trout ravioli with horseradish cream sauce.
Champignons Le Foret (wild mushroom confit with foie gras and hazelnut sauce).
Celery soup with celeriac flan.
Caramelized red snapper with sauce Americaine.
Jumbo shrimp with crabmeat pasta and tomato-fennel sauce.
Seared sea scallops with mustard-braised onions, bacon, and potato puree.
Rabbit three ways (rack, leg, tenderloin).
Grilled beef tenderloin with bolognese-style sauce of oxtails and black trumpet mushrooms.
Saddle of lamb.
Hot dessert soufflees.
FOR BEST RESULTS
Order heavy in the appetizer course. Two starters would not be a bad idea. They make hot dessert soufflees, which you should order at the beginning of the meal.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The tasting menu, for some reason, has never appealed to me here. One night, they ought to close the curtains and see whether that helps or detracts from the environment, both visually and aurally. The restaurant's website is hard to read and loaded with irritating music.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +2
- Consistency +2
- Service +2
- Value +1
- Attitude +3
- Wine and Bar +2
- Hipness +2
- Local Color +2
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Romantic
- Good view
- Good for business meetings
- Many private rooms
- Open Sunday dinner
- Open Monday lunch and dinner
- Free valet parking
- Reservations honored promptly
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
The era of fine dining peaked in New Orleans in the latter end of the 1980s. After that, the bistros emphatically took over, cooking excellent food and building deep wine cellars while brushing aside formality in every form. The hurricane brought an end to new openings of grand restaurants. All of the existing big-deal places are coming up on (or well beyond) ten years old.
And that's why the opening of Le Foret last year was so significant. Nothing was spared in its premises, menu, wine cellar, or staffing. The only concession to the current vogues is the low-level dress code. Otherwise, the restaurant performs at such a high level that it makes me nostalgic to dine there, even though the menu is very much up to date. It's been a long time.
This review was updated with new information on 4/8/2010.
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