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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Leonardo's Trattoria

Italian.
CBD: 709 St. Charles. 504-558-8986. Map.
Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Dinner 3-10 p.m. Sunday, and before Saints and Hornets games.
Casual
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Leonardo's posture is that of a casual Sicilian restaurant (trattoria=bistro), and it captures that style reasonably well. The style of the pastas and red-saucy dishes will be very familiar to New Orleanians. But the menu is full of little-seen dishes, some of which are very welcome (arancini, for example). They're heavier in the roasted-meat department than most local Italian restaurants--and I mean that in both senses of the word. There's a good bit of fish, most of it grilled or broiled. But. . .

WHY IT'S GOOD
Although the rest of the menu seems to beg for most of your attention, the the major specialty here is pizza. It emerges from a wood-burning brick oven, and it's in the top rank. The crust is thin, crisp at the bottom, lightly burned and bubbled here and there, and covered with an unimpeachable sauce and excellent cheeses and other ingredients. The rest of the menu is good and ample, but if you pass on the pizza, you've missed it.

BACKSTORY
After spending a number of years in first-class restaurant in Las Vegas, chef-owner Leonardo Daniele opened this restaurant in 2008. This space has hosted restaurants--many of them Italian--for almost a hundred years.

Leonardo's.

DINING ROOM
The old building was only lightly renovated for Leonardo's, and its brick walls wear their age well. The tables and booths form an L around the oversize bar. The tiles in the high ceiling look like a gigantic chessboard. The busiest tables are always those on the sidewalk, even in the summer heat. Service is always lagging a beat or two behind one's dining rhythm, but the servers make up for this with eager accommodation.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Bruschetta with tomatoes.
Mozzarella in carozza (a kind of sandwich).
Caponata.
Roasted peppers stuffed with cheese, garlic, and bread crumbs.
Fried calamari.
Antipasto assortment.
Arancini (fried rice balls stuffed with meat and tomato sauce).
Swordfish carpaccio.
Panzanella (bread salad).
Mozzarella salad Caprese.
Fettuccine Alfredo.
Spaghetti carbonara.
Rigatoni with meat sauce and mushrooms.
Pansotti (stuffed pasta with ricotta and spinach, like a rolled lasagna).
Ravioli with beef.
Cheese tortelloni with peas.
Fettuccine with seafood.
Fish (especially tuna) fra diavolo (spicy tomato sauce).
Fish piccata.
Chicken or veal medallions with fennel, Marsala, piccata, or parmigiana.
Lamb shank osso buco
Scottadito (lamb shops with rosemary)
Wood-fired oven pizzas.
Cannoli.
Tiramisu.

Pizza.

FOR BEST RESULTS
The restaurant is eight blocks from the Superdome and Arena, and they open two hours before all Saints and Hornets games. Did I mention that pizza is essential?

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The pasta dishes in my experience need to go on a diet, both in the sauce and noodle department.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 7/22/2010.


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