Contemporary Creole.
Riverbend: 7623 Maple. 504-314-9003. Map.
Lunch and dinner continuously seven days.
Casual
AE DC DS MC V
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
In a renovated cottage in the middle of one of the busiest blocks of Maple Street, it captures a clientele that mixes people from the neighborhood, the university crowd, and the other local shopkeepers. The half-Italian, half-Creole menu is appealing and well turned out. And the prices are at bargain levels. The Maple Street opens on all holidays, with special menus.
WHY IT'S GOOD
The food here has a lightness in style that runs through almost everything here. The raw materials are good and fresh, the cooking straightforward and uncomplicated by too many ingredients, and presented beautifully. The appetizer collection is varied enough to make it possible to have a good meal of only those, especially if a pasta course is included. The soups and salads are especially good. The Friday night osso buco special is a contender for best version of that dish in town. (It also differs from the rest of the menu in being a massive meal.)
BACKSTORY
The Maple Street Cafe was a spinoff of Petra, a Metairie restaurant begun by Jameel and T.J. Qutob, brothers from Jordan. Jameel, who was a chef at Vincent's before partnering with T.J., is the managing partner of the Maple Street, as well as the man on the stove most of the time. T.J., the former maitre d' at Andrea's, spends most of his time at the other restaurant (now called La Famiglia).
DINING ROOM
The main room is split-level, being a combination of the old cottage's parlor and its former front yard, now enclosed by walls with many windows. It's pleasantly bright. The kitchen is at the rear (its teeny size explains the simplicity of most of the food) and open to view. Just past it is a less-appealing private dining room that could use some renovation. They also have a few tables on a small deck for nice-weather alfresco dining.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Oysters amandine.
Eggplant cake with crabmeat cream sauce.
Stuffed shrimp in phyllo.
Steamed mussels with tomato sauce.
All soups, especially lentil.
Grilled chicken salad with seven lettuces.
Greek salad in a bread bowl.
Rigatoni sui-sui (garlic-tomato sauce).
Angel hair pasta with three exotic mushrooms.
Grilled salmon with herb sauce and spinach.
Cioppino (seafood stew with pasta).
Chicken or veal piccata.
Chicken stuffed with artichokes, ham and cheese.
Braciolone.
Duck Jameel (with fig glaze).
Filet mignon with grilled portobello.
Rack of lamb.
Caramel custard.
FOR BEST RESULTS
Avoid tables near the front in cold weather. Have pasta as an appetizer. Even though the restaurant is rarely full, make a reservation; it has a way of packing unpredictably.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The rear dining room is significantly less pleasant than the front. The osso buco ought to be on the menu all the time.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment
- Consistency
- Service +1
- Value +2
- Attitude +1
- Wine and Bar
- Hipness
- Local Color +1
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Courtyard or deck dining
- Romantic
- Medium private room
- Open Sunday lunch and dinner
- Open Monday lunch and dinner
- Open all holidays
- Open all afternoon
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- Reservations honored promptly
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
Outside the French Quarter, few areas of the city enjoy what you could call a sidewalk trade. One of those is the dozen or so blocks of Maple Street between Carrollton and Broadway. It's a commercial strip in an otherwise residential neighborhood, with the colleges nearby supplying even more traffic. (And potential employees.)
This review was updated with new information on 12/16/2009.
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