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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Serio’s Po-Boys & Deli

Sandwiches. Lunchroom.
CBD: 133 St. Charles Ave. 504-523-2668. Map.
Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday.
Very Casual
AE DS MC V

WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL
The transformation of the Central Business District into a neighborhood of hotels continues. This has improved the quality of the many small lunchrooms that dot the area. Serio's--a maker of one-at-a-time, handmade sandwiches, has always been one of the good ones.

WHY IT'S GOOD
Serio's specializes in poor boys, made by ladies who look as if they've been at it for awhile. There's the most comprehensive list of potential fillings you're likely to find--liver cheese, anyone?--and all of them are of good quality. The bread and the dressings are fresh and crisp. A board of plate specials features all the standards.

BACKSTORY
Serio's opened a few feet from where it is now in the 1950s, when the downtown area was bustling and multiple lines formed in the dining room every day at lunchtime. That scene continued for a long time, as the place evolved from a bright, utilitarian space into a darker, much less busy restaurant, always patronized primarily by locals.

DINING ROOM
The place is a total shrine to LSU sports. There are icons of that mania everywhere you look. The food comes from what looks like a cafeteria line in the rear. You place your order, pay for it, then wait to pick it up. You find a worn-out table in the worn-out room, unroll the paper wrapper from the sandwich, then go to town.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Ham poor boy.
Roast beef poor boy.
Fried seafood poor boys.
Muffuletta.
Daily specials, especially red beans, baked chicken, and beef stew.

FOR BEST RESULTS
Specify that you want the sandwich cut into two pieces. Open the sandwich and move all the meat, cheese, and dressings from the right half to the left half. Throw away the extra bread. You now have a modern poor boy, instead of the old-style, less meaty example Serio's has made for six decades.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
This place is in a perfect location for a genuine poor boy shop (which it is) with a bright, inviting outlook (which it lacks). The business of the future here will be increasingly that of visitors, who may not get the LSU obsession and the other quirks from the past. The place needs renovation.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 10/5/2009.