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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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N'Tini's

Contemporary Creole.
Mandeville: 2891 US 190. 985-626-5566. Map.
Lunch Monday-Friday. Dinner Monday-Saturday.
Casual
AE MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
N'Tini's is an over-the-top, casual, New Orleans-style restaurant, serving almost everything under the purple, green and gold sun. Portions are enormous (so are some of the prices), few dishes come out with less than an overload of garnishes and sauces, and kicky themes for the specials vie for your attention. The cooking is better than I'm making it sound, but delicacy is not the byword. This, however, very much suits the tastes of the North Shore.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The kitchen buys food of more-than-decent merit and applies convincing Creole and Cajun flavors to all of it. What the cooking lacks in the fine details it attempts to make up for with large portions. Unlike most restaurants on that tack, this avoids grossness and the hodge-podge effect, and the eating is reasonably good. Seafood is the best specialty, although the straightforward steaks are of fine quality.

BACKSTORY
The name is pronounced "natini's." N'Tini's opened in 2004 in Chalmette, and was just getting popular when Katrina wiped out not only the restaurant but its entire neighborhood. Like many St. Bernard residents, the owner relocated to the North Shore, where he took over an existing (but not very good) restaurant called Rockafella's, which was also dogged by road construction in front. It evolved it into N'Tini's over a period of months, and became immensely popular.

DINING ROOM
A split-level dining area is mostly given over to booth-style tables. An open kitchen at one end adds to the action but not the noise. The bar is always overflowing with customers waiting for tables, or just having cocktails. When an important game is going on, it will dominate the room on the big-screen television. It's that kind of place.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Seafood martini.
Shrimp or oysters fleur-de-lis (like Buffalo chicken wing sauce).
Crab cake Napoleon (crab cakes and fried eggplant, stacked).
Seared tuna, served cold with sashimi garnishes.
Chicken and sausage gumbo.
Black and blue salad (blackened sirloin, Caesar salad, blue cheese).
Rockafeller [sic] salad.
Wedge salad.
Fried seafood platter.
Tuna, shrimp and sea scallop mixed grill.
Crabmeat-stuffed shrimp.
Grilled fish specials.
Tournedos with two sauces.
Steaks, particularly filet and New York strip.
Surf and Turf (filet with barbecue shrimp).
Barbecue baby back ribs.
Pork osso buco.
Bread pudding.
Dessert specials.

FOR BEST RESULTS
Almost every dish, from the appetizers through the desserts, is big enough to split two ways. Three orders per four persons in each course, at the very most.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
A better sense of taste is needed in the kitchen. This is especially true of the specials.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 11/2/2009.