The Restaurants We Can't Live Without By Tom Fitzmorris Nola Contemporary Creole. French Quarter: 534 St. Louis. 504-522-6652. Map. Lunch Friday-Sunday. Dinner seven nights. Nice Casual AE DC DS MC V www.emerils.com/restaurant/2/NOLA-Restaurant/   WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL   NOLA is Emeril Lagasse's most casual restaurant, at least in New Orleans. In recent years it's evolved into Emeril's Greatest Hits Cafe. There's nothing wrong with that, and it likely appeals tremendously to the many visitors that wander into the superb location. NOLA has created more than a few of its own specialties, too.   WHY IT'S GOOD   Although the prices here are a shade lower than at Emeril's other two New Orleans establishments, all the bedrock standards that brought the chef his fame are in force. The kitchen exploits fresh local product, making everything in house, maintaining a full pastry kitchen, and collecting an impressive stock of wines. The service staff is sharp without being formal.   BACKSTORY   "NOLA" is familiar to all New Orleanians as shorthand for "New Orleans, Louisiana." It was Emeril's second restaurant, opened a couple of years after his flagship a mile away. It took over a space built out as a very hip Italian restaurant called Spunto, and took full advantage of the edgy decor while adding more of it. It has historically been the place where his organization brings up new chefs, managers, and dishes.   DINING ROOM   Many come to NOLA looking for a glimpse of the superstar chef; they probably won't get one, but the wait staff is happy to tell the visitors all about him. The restaurant occupies three floors, the bottom one sporting an open kitchen and its popular food bar. There you sit right in front of the wood-burning oven and grill, and watch the food as it's cooked. The tables on the first and second floors can look at each other over the atrium-like fore part of the restaurant. The third floor is a private dining space with a very cool bar.   ESSENTIAL DISHES   Vietnamese stuffed chicken wings (oddly, this is one NOLA's longest-running dishes, great with cocktails). Baked oysters with crabmeat, garlic butter and bread crumbs. Pizza of duck confit and arugula. Duck livers with greens and mustard cream sauce. Crab cake with eggplant puree and citrus butter. Barbecue shrimp. Crabmeat and celery root salad with roasted beets and arugula. Shrimp and grits. Wood roasted redfish with garlic crust. Grilled fish with vegetable "capellini." Smoked St. Louis style pork ribs with blackberry and stout glaze. Hickory-roasted duck with whiskey and caramel glaze and roasted corn salad. Grilled pork porterhouse with pecans and sweet potatoes. Filet mignon with garlic mashed potatoes. White chocolate and bananas Foster bread pudding. Banana pudding layer cake. Nola buzz bomb (a chocolate cake overkill). Chocolate bourbon pecan pie.   FOR BEST RESULTS   Emeril's people very much appreciate locals, so be sure to let them know you are if you are. Leave room for dessert, a very strong course here.   OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   One of the best and most innovative dishes here--the fish roasted on a cedar plank--is overdue for a return to the menu.   FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD   Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment +2 Consistency +1 Service +2 Value  Attitude +2 Wine and Bar +2 Hipness +2 Local Color +1   SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES    Romantic Good for business meetings Private dining room (fewer than 25) Private dining room (more than 25) Open Sunday Open Monday Well-known chef Vegetarian dishes Unusually large servings Good for children Reservations accepted Reservations honored promptly Valet parking free (at Royal Orleans Hotel, half-block awayon Chartres Street) Click here for an index to all 200 Essential Restaurant reviews. Click here for the index to all the reviews so far. © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com