The Restaurants We Can't Live Without By Tom Fitzmorris. . . Revised May 2009 Nuvolari’s Contemporary Creole. Mandeville: 246 Girod St. 985-626-5619. Map. Dinner seven nights, from 5 p.m. Nice Casual AE DC DS MC V www.nuvolaris.com   WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL   The North Shore has never had many gourmet bistros along the lines of those Uptown. This one is the most successful and most reliable, pairing an engaging environment and an easy style with cooking that ranges from the familiar to the quirky and unique.   WHY IT'S GOOD   Chef Thomas Smith's fresh-tasting, light style of Creole cooking takes over more and more of the menu every day, and as it does so grabs new attention from North Shore diners. The seafood dishes are especially appealing, with seemingly-similar dishes each having their own unique flavors. This is a particularly good place in which to construct an all-appetizer dinner.   BACKSTORY   The brick main building is over a century old, for most of that time the general store for Old Mandeville. It was renovated into a restaurant in 1984 by Paul Murphy, the owners of Jacmel Inn in Hammond. Originally Nuvolari's (named for 1930s Italian racecar driver Tazio Nuvolari) was an Italian restaurant, albeit with an inventive, contemporary collection of dishes. Over the years its chefs emphasized Creole cooking in their specials. After the hurricane (which did only a little damage to the restaurant), managing partner Wally Simmons and chef Thomas Smith reopened with a short, menu of specials in lieu of the big old main menu. It was so well received that they never went back to the old style. The best of the restaurant's signature dishes remained, but now the menu is revised daily, and not much of it is Italian anymore.   DINING ROOM   The split-level main dining room is reminiscent of the concept restaurants of the 1970s, but it has a comfortable, casual style. Wood railings and windowed panels divide the big space into more intimate areas. The second dining room is more modern and formal. The bar--presided over personally by manager Wally Simmons--has its own life force, busy and happy.   ESSENTIAL DISHES   Fried oysters and Brie with spinach. Oysters Rockefeller. Steamed mussels with coconut red curry. Italian style whole shrimp (like barbecue shrimp, but a bit more herbal). Escargots and crawfish tails in demi-glace sauce. Caesar salad. Asparagus and crabmeat salad. Pan-roasted Gulf fish with asparagus, smoked mushrooms, and roasted tomatoes. Grilled redfish with wild rice, pecans, green beans, and crabmeat. Bread-crumb-crusted sea scallops with risotto. Roast duck with cherries and green peppercorns. Veal piccata. Filet mignon bordelaise. Lamb chops with jalapeno glaze. White chocolate cheesecake. Bellini ice.   FOR BEST RESULTS   The entrees here are of such a size that it's uncomfortable to have two preliminary courses. Check the blackboard near the entrance for wine specials.   OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   The wine list, once very interesting, needs beefing up. The main dining room is looking a little worn; it's overdue for a renovation.   FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD   Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment +1 Consistency +2 Service +1 Value +1 Attitude +1 Wine and Bar Hipness +2 Local Color +2   SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES    Romantic Windows with a view Good for business meetings Private dining room (fewer than 25) Private dining room (more than 25) Open Sunday Open Monday Historic Vegetarian dishes Unusually large servings Good for children Easy, nearby parking Reservations accepted Reservations honored promptly Click here for an index to all 200 Essential Restaurant reviews. © 2009 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com