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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Phoenicia

Lebanese.
Metairie: 4201 Veterans Blvd. 504-889-9950. Map.
Lunch and dinner continuously, seven days.
Casual
AE DC DS MC V

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Hidden in a large strip mall whose other restaurants include Houston's and Chili's, Phoenicia is an unexpected pleasure. With one of the best Middle Eastern kitchens in the area and a handsome dining room, the food is undiluted. The menu doesn't venture beyond the familiar Lebanese dishes, but these are executed unusually well.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The combination kebab platter is a good example of the kitchen's skill. They're all tender but not too, marinated to deliciousness, nicely seasoned, and cooked to a char on the outside while not drying the meat out. The hummos and rice that come with it are first-class. All this is true of the other entrees, with the exception of items I wouldn't order anywhere (gyros and tilapia). The portions, typical of Lebanese restaurants, are too large to finish comfortably. The olive-oil-and-herb dipping sauce and pita bread they bring at the beginning is sort of a make-it-yourself zaatar bread.

BACKSTORY
Phoenicia opened in the Independence Mall in 2003, taking over the space of a failed, fancy Chinese restaurant. The place took moderate damage from Katrina but was back open within a few months.

DINING ROOM
Among the most atmospheric of Lebanese restaurants in the area, Phoenicia sports a high, sloping ceiling that makes an impression of comfort and circumstance. It takes you by surprise the first time, because from the outside it looks like any other strip mall restaurant. Occasionally, belly dancers give performances during dinner. On cold evenings wind blows through the dining room whenever anyone opens the door, and it's a bit chilly in there.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Hummus.
Baba ghanoush.
Battata hara (spicy, garlicky hash brown potatoes).
Lebneh (yogurt with mint and garlic).
Tabbouleh salad.
Grape leaves stuffed with rice, mint and ground beef and lamb.
Fried kibbe.
Falafel.
Spinach pie.
Meat pie.
Halloumi (white cheese with tomato and garlic sauce).
Lentil soup.
Lamb chops.
Chicken or beef shawarma.
Chicken, lamb, or kafta kebabs.
Shrimp or salmon kebabs. kebabs.
Ashta (like Creole cream cheese, with pistachios and orange flower water syrup).
Baklava.

FOR BEST RESULTS
Back off one step from the initial order you make. It will almost certainly be too much food.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
You are not likely to be greeted at the door by anyone, but the restaurant looks good enough that one expects this. (Just sit down.)

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 1/12/2010.

A list of all 300 full, current reviews is here.