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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Shula's Steakhouse

Steaks.
CBD: 614 Canal. 504-586-7211. Map.
Breakfast and dinner seven days. Lunch Monday-Friday. Sunday brunch.
Nice Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Shula's is two restaurants in one. It's the all-day restaurant of the JW Marriott Hotel on Canal Street, serving all three meals every day of the year. More distinctively, it's the local outlet of a nationwide chain of premium steakhouses. This one is better than the other three I've been to in other cities. While it follows the corporate specs on most matters, the Canal Street franchise buys more local product and cooks more local dishes than is typical for a national outfit. For the most part, however, Shula's delivers the standard high-end steakhouse menu, with the usual masculine, straightforward trappings.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The spec across the menu is Certified Angus Beef, a brand raised by cattlemen in the northern tier of states, subject to standards which Shula's claims are more stringent than those applied to USDA Prime. In my opinion, C.A.B. is not quite as good as Prime, but you won't notice if you order a filet. I do notice the step down in the strips and porterhouses, though even there it's not drastic. The steaks are served in the sauceless American style, although just-okay classic French sauces can be had. Shula's serves prime rib routinely--a rarity these days. The rest of the menu is exactly what you'd expect. They serve a breakfast buffet here every morning; it's excellent when the hotel is busy, terrible when it's not.

BACKSTORY
Shula's is named for Don Shula, the winningest football coach in NFL history. His son and partners run the thirty-two restaurant chain. The JW Marriott is the former Meridien Hotel, a luxury property from the pre-World's-fair hotel boom in New Orleans. Shula's occupies the space that was formerly the French bistro Midi. Shula's was just about to open when the hurricane hit New Orleans; the opening was delayed, but only a little.

DINING ROOM
Logically enough, the restaurant has a subtle football motif--the menus, for example, are covered with what looks football leather--but it's not overbearing. The front dining room has windows looking into Canal Street. Further back, the tables are darker and more private, even romantic. The comfortable bar spills into the mall that runs through the hotel.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Crab cake.
Blackened tenderloin tips (appetizer).
Barbecue shrimp.
Oysters Rockefeller.
Lobster bisque.
Stone crab claws.
Wedge salad.
Beefstaek tomato and blue cheese salad.
Filet mignon.
Kansas City cut strip.
Cowboy ribeye.
Porterhouse.
Prime rib.
Maine lobster.
Lamb chops.
Asparagus or broccoli hollandaise.
Hash brown potatoes.
Crabmeat macaroni and cheese.
Molten chocolate cake.
Apple cobbler.
Cheesecake.

FOR BEST RESULTS
The bigger the steak, the better it is. Split one big one instead of getting two small ones. The soups here are unusually good, made on the premises instead of being bought finished.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
Corporate uniformity is not a good enough reason for serving crabmeat, shrimp, and oysters from out of town. It's insulting here. Sizzling butter, New Orleans style, ought to be an offered option.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS

This review was updated with new information on 12/10/2009.

 


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