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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

starstar
pricebar

Southern Po-Boys

Sandwiches.
Jefferson: 720 Claiborne Dr.. 504-835-3035. Map.
Lunch Monday-Saturday. Open till 7 p.m. Friday.
Very Casual
MC, V.
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
It's almost a given that the older poor boy shops have a certain something in their sandwiches that latter-day vendors never quite get right. The problem with the old joints, through, is that they have a way of running out of gas and disappearing. The Southern has grown in size and menu consistently, particularly in the last ten or so years. The full line of poor boys is here, with enough platters that you could call it a full-service restaurant.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The old style of making poor boys has much to recommend it. When the roast beef is cooked in house, and when the seafood is fried to order, what comes to the table has a strong chance of being good--especially after decades of honing the recipes. The daily special platters are especially good. That they have not just red beans but white beans is a good sign that they're not just slinging it out.

BACKSTORY
The Southern has been there as long as I can remember, and I grew up in this neighborhood. It was one of the early returners after the hurricane.

DINING ROOM
If it's been a long time since you've been here--or if you suspected that its stark exterior indicated grubbiness inside--take another look. They've performed a major renovation that makes the place presentable enough to take an out-of-town visitor. The floors and walls are painted with fanciful Cajun scenes.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Poor boys:
Roast beef.
Barbecue beef.
Hot sausage.
Meatballs with red sauce.
Fried or grilled chicken.
Fried oyster.
Fried shrimp.
Catfish.
~
Muffuletta.
Seafood muffuletta.
Fried seafood platters (shrimp, oyster, catfish, or all three).
Fried soft shell crab.
Hamburger steak with onions.
Chicken-fried steak.
Fried pork chop.
Meatballs and spaghetti.
Daily plate specials.
Bread pudding.

FOR BEST RESULTS
The small sandwich is plenty enough for a standard appetite, even though the large is sold for the going price for a standard locally. Ask them to heat the bread if you're getting a poor boy, and not to heat it if you're getting a muffuletta. Like many shops, they get this backwards.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 12/13/2009.

 


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