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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

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Among the best locally.

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Excellent and ambitious.

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Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Stein's Deli

Sandwiches. Deli.
Uptown: 2207 Magazine . 504-527-0771. Map.
7 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Friday. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Very Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
You can count the number of New York-style delicatessens on the fingers of one hand in New Orleans. Stein's is the best of them. They sell both Jewish and Italian styles, with more than a little New Orleans flavor too.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The quality of the deli meats and cheeses (it's not kosher, as you may already have guessed) is spectacular, to the point that if you live even reasonably nearby you may find yourself buying all your sliced meats there. The sandwiches are imaginative and well made. Although you can't drink it on the premises, beer is available in amazing variety, including some real rarities. Also here: a smattering of gourmet groceries.

BACKSTORY
Owner Dan Stein opened this place after working awhile at Martin Wine Cellar and a few other places.

DINING ROOM
The deli is in a very old retail space in the Irish Channel, and not much has been done to renovate or dress it up. Tables, display cases, and counters are all shoved in wherever they fit. Sausages, hams, and cheeses hang about. The place smells good.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Muffuletta.
Beef tongue sandwich.
Tuscan panini.
Fernando sandwich (prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, pesto on ciabatta).
Italian hoagie (Chicago style).
Reuben or Rachel sandwich.
Or whatever strikes your fancy. They'll make almost any kind of sandwich.
Cobb salad.
Greek salad.
Bagels and bialys.

FOR BEST RESULTS
Don't come in a huge hurry. Grab any space that comes open and be prepared to tidy it up a bit.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The premises are so ramshackle that it's hard for customers or employees to function. The tables get messy when the place is busy.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 11/23/2009.

A list of all 275 full, current reviews is here.