The Restaurants We Can't Live Without By Tom Fitzmorris #140 Sukho Thai Thai. Marigny: 1913 Royal. 504-948-9309. Map. Lunch Tuesday-Friday. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.  Casual. AE DC DS MC V www.sukhothai-nola.com   WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL   One of the two or three best Thai restaurants in the area, Sukho Thai is especially adept at its cooking of seafood. The inexpensive corkage fee and unlimited bring-your-own-bottle policy add to its appeal, but the food is the main draw.   WHY IT'S GOOD   While most Thai restaurants shrink back from cooking with the distinctly high pepper levels that make the cuisine so exciting, Sukho Thai seems to always use a little more than you expect. (If you order Thai food hot elsewhere, you might want to do medium here.) The variety of fish and shellfish--most notably the whole fish, mussels, and scallops--also add to the goodness.   BACKSTORY   The building is an old grocery store in the bend of Royal Street in the Marigny Triangle. It was the original location of the Marigny Brasserie, which moved because the location can't secure a liquor license. (Hence the BYOB policy.) The restaurants is named for a northern province of Thailand, and means “dawn of happiness.” The restaurant opened in 2004, and after an abortive restart following Katrina got back to work full-time in 2006.   DINING ROOM   Tall ceilings, concrete floors, and big, windowed double doors make the place airier than the thick old walls might suggest. In nice weather, they open all the doors and you're practically part of the busy Marigny sidewalk traffic, and the comfortable, well-worn feeling appropriate for that old part of town. doors that The mostly non-Asian service staff has the mellowness you expect in the Marigny.   ESSENTIAL DISHES   Shrimp in pouches. Thai spring rolls. Vegetable fresh rolls. Herbal mussels. Soft-shell crab salad. Tom yum shrimp soup. Shrimp or chicken satays. Green curry with seafood combination. Whole fried fish. Bathing Rama (stir-fried meat of choice with many vegetables). Hot basil or Thai garlic stir-fries. Panang duck curry. Pad Thai.   FOR BEST RESULTS   The restaurant is small and popular. It's a good idea to bring a bottle of wine, if only to kill time while waiting, if that happens. Become more adventuresome with your order than you would be elsewhere. The routine dishes (pad thai, for example) are best had elsewhere.   OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   The noodle dishes here are not as good as the stir-fries and curries.   FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD   Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment  Service  Consistency +1 Value +1 Attitude  Wine And Bar  Hipness +1 Local Color +1   SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES    Windows with a view Open Sunday Historic Vegetarian dishes Quick, good meal Unusually large servings Click here for the index to all the reviews so far. © 2009 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com