Subscribe To The
Five-Star Edition!

Shrimp remoulade.

This review originally appeared in the New Orleans Menu Daily, which brings out a full, up-to-date restaurant review every weekday. Along with local restaurant news, top-ten lists, recipes, and Tom Fitzmorris's Dining Diary. All of it is original and current, illustrated with lots of photos of New Orleans restaurants, chefs, and their food.

The price of a subscription is whatever number of dollars seems right to you. For that amount, you get full access to the daily newsletter online, an e-mail bulletin version every day, and archives of everything published since Hurricane Katrina.

If you're still not convinced, do two things: 1. Know that I'll refund all your money if you're not happy. 2. Take a look at this sample edition. Then. . .

Thank you!

Tastefully yours,
Tom Fitzmorris


Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

starstar
pricebar

Surrey's

Breakfast. Sandwiches. Salads.
Garden District: 1418 Magazine. 504-524-3828. Map.
Breakfast and lunch, 8 a.m.-3 p.m., Wednesday-Sunday.
Very Casual.
Cash only
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Surrey's feels like something out of the 1970s, when people of my Baby Boom generation began opening their first restaurants, imbued with full flower-child natural wholesomeness. A closer look shows a menu that has all the fat, bacon, red meat, and Coca-Cola that any other neighborhood restaurant has, in addition to the fresh-squeezed juices and organic foods. So it works for everybody.

WHY IT'S GOOD
Despite the low prices (they top out in low teens), Surrey's buys fresh products of excellent quality, many of them sourced locally. They make a lot of what they serve in-house--the smoked salmon, for example. The menu is imaginative, without really leaving the realm of conventional breakfast (eggs, grits, biscuits, grilled meats) or lunch (sandwiches and salads). The hipness of the menu adds much to the enjoyment of the food here on the part of the many regular customers.

BACKSTORY
Greg Surrey opened in a converted Lower Garden District house in 2001, at first focusing on the juice bar, salads, and offbeat breakfasts. The place caught on to a near-cult degree almost immediately, and that encouraged the growth of the menu. At times, some very serious chefs have passed through this kitchen. Surrey's made a lot of friends by reopening quickly after Hurricane Katrina, a time when this sort of food made people feel good.

DINING ROOM
The premises are a bit cramped, most of the small tables lining the walls of a narrow room illuminated with naked light bulbs and stirred by ceiling fans. The tall ceilings help. There's a bit more space in the juice bar section.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Basic eggs with sausage, ham, or bacon
Smoked salmon and eggs
Migas (scrambled eggs with herbs, cheese, and salsa)`
Huevos rancheros (eggs with black beans and salsa)
Balsamic-roasted vegetable omelette
Shrimp and grits with bacon
Tofu breakfast platter with vegetables and rice
Boudin on a breakfast biscuit
Scrambled eggs with chorizo, cheddar, and pico de gallo
Beer-boiled bratwurst and eggs, hashbrowns with onions and apples
Bananas Foster French toast
Banana pancakes (with pecans optional)
Bagels and bagel sandwiches
Fresh fruit plate, with granola optional
Roasted veggie po-boy with pesto and goat cheese
Spinach cheese melt sandwich
Grilled portobello mushroom sandwich
Grilled chicken breast sandwich
Corned beef and meunster cheese sandwich
Roasted veggie po-boy with pesto and goat cheese
Barbecue shrimp po-boy
Club sandwich
Turkey and avocado sandwich
Salads
Freshly-juiced juices, from fruits or vegetables

FOR BEST RESULTS
Go for breakfast during the week. It's tremendously crowded on Saturday and Sunday. Avoid the tofu dishes, unless you eat that sort of thing all the time.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The service staff has a touch of attitude. The cash-only policy is a ridiculous inconvenience.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 6/21/2010.


A list of over 350 full, current reviews is here.