The Restaurants We Can't Live Without By Tom Fitzmorris Thai Thai Thai. Covington: 1536 US 190. 985-809-8905. Map. Lunch and dinner seven days. Casual. AE DC DS MC V http://www.nomenu.com/Restaurants/ThaiThai.html   WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL   A few years ago, no Thai restaurants could be found on the North Shore. Then Ricky Seubsanh showed up. He opened--and then left behind--a series of no fewer than four Thai restaurants, all of which are still around. All of his past venues are still good, but this is where he is now. He's colorful and friendly enough that his customers follow him around. The bamboo-hut look of the building adds something , too.   WHY IT'S GOOD   Thai Thai puts more effort than most Thai restaurants in buying (and growing, sometimes) fresh ingredients. There's nothing particularly exceptional about the menu--it's a comprehensive list of all the Thai standards. All of these are cooked and served (usually by Ricky himself, who appears to do everything at the same time) with a great fresh flavor and lovely presentations, at very low prices. This is the most delicious food I know that is one hundred percent good for you. Low fat and carbs, high content of especially healthful vegetables. Even the pepper component, if you choose to ask for that on the high side, makes you feel better immediately after eating it. Thai curries--whose flavors have almost nothing in common with Indian curries--come in several colors and flavors. Those are a real specialty here, served in an authentically soupy style. The Thai basil, garlic, and noodle dishes are bit more solid, but no less good.   BACKSTORY   Ricky has been part of the New Orleans restaurant scene for at least thirty years, starting on Bourbon Street with the legendary Takee Outee. The first time I ran into him on the North Shore was at the Thai Pot. He next was in this location (the former Schwing's, and quite a few restaurant before that) under the name Thai Spice, but after a family disagreement took himself and that name across the highway. He departed Thai Spice (leaving it in the hands of a nephew) and returned to the other side of the highway. He renamed it Thai Thai, and there he is.   DINING ROOM   The former Schwing's tried to reproduce the old Bali Hai's environment. That was a perfect look for a Thai restaurant, and here it is. Two rooms, both with walls and ceiling covered with bamboo, have a pleasant tropical feeling.   ESSENTIAL DISHES   Fried spring roll. Tom yum shrimp soup. Chicken and green curry soup. Thai basil with pork. Thai garlic with beef. Thai catfish salad. Green curry with chicken and eggplant. Red curry with vegetables and pork. Panang curry with shrimp. Jungle curry. Pad kee mow (wide noodles). Pad Thai (rice noodles) with shrimp. All dishes can be had with a choice of meats or seafood, and at whatever level of pepper heat you like.   FOR BEST RESULTS   If a dish sounds Chinese, don't get it. They're not bad, but the Thai food is better. Don't be put off by the tremendous amount of sauce in the curries and other dishes. There's a lot of solid food under the surface, and you'll be going after all the sauce with a spoon, anyway.   OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   I'd be interested in seeing what Ricky could come up with if he started inventing completely original dishes.   FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD   Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment +1 Service +1 Consistency  Value +2 Attitude +2 Wine And Bar  Hipness  Local Color +1   SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES    Romantic Good for business meetings Private dining room (fewer than 25) Private dining room (more than 25) Open Sunday Open Monday Open most holidays Vegetarian dishes Quick, good meal Unusually large servings Good for children Easy, nearby parking Click here for the index to all the reviews so far. © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com