The Restaurants We Can't Live Without By Tom Fitzmorris #144 Water Street Bistro Contemporary Creole. Madisonville: 804 Water. 985-845-3855. Map. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday. Sunday brunch. Casual. AE DC DS MC V www.waterstreetbistro.com   WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL   The gourmet Creole bistro is the most popular kind of white-tablecloth restaurant on the South Shore, but even with the multiplication of restaurant options on the North Shore, few bistros can be found there. The Water Street Bistro is one of the best of its kind, with a menu pulling together Creole, French, and Italian dishes in a pleasantly rustic dining room right on the Tchefuncte River.   WHY IT'S GOOD   The kitchen at the Water Street turns out polished versions of its list of more or less familiar dishes. The ingredients are of good quality, with sauces and garnishes that bring the eating well within the range of sophistication.   BACKSTORY   Chef Tony and Constance Monroe opened the Water Street Bistro in 2004, taking over a converted cottage on the Tchefuncte riverfront that has seen a number of previous restaurants come and go. (The most recent was a Sal & Judy's copy operated by that couple's daughter.)   DINING ROOM   The look of the main room is simple and antique in a country style that fits perfectly into the little community of Madisonville. (In fact, the place could use a little more decorating.) Plank walls, an exposed-beam ceiling, and bent-wood chairs create most of the feeling, with a bar in the rear and many windows looking out into the river.   ESSENTIAL DISHES   Smoked salmon. Crab claws with butter sauce. Crab cakes. Grilled shrimp with artichokes, capers, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, garlic and olive oil. Panneed veal with fettuccine. Veal chop with marsala and shiitake mushrooms. Rack of lamb with Dijon mustard and bread crumb crust. Roast duck half with fig and port wine sauce. Chicken Pontalba (brunch). Grillades and grits (brunch). Peach amaretto French toast. Plus many daily specials.   FOR BEST RESULTS   It's my experience that the specials here are almost always more interesting than most of the standing menu. Make a reservation, especially on weekends. The restaurant is small and popular.   OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   The location creates the expectation of more local seafood than the restaurant usually offers.   FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD   Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment +1 Consistency +1 Service +1 Value +1 Attitude +1 Wine and Bar Hipness Local Color +2   SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES    Outdoor dining Romantic Windows with a view Open Sunday Historic Easy, nearby parking Reservations accepted Reservations honored promptly Good for children Unusually large servings Click here for an index to all 200 Essential Restaurant reviews. Click here for the index to all the reviews so far. © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com