National Fruitcake Day

From someone who regards you well, here come two turtledoves, Tujague's recipe (for the crawfish they caught in Arabi), two candy canes, green polka-dot pajamas, or (in our own version of the song) two eggs Sardou.It is also five days until New Year's Eve. Which isn't much time to get a dinner reservation if you're going out. But plenty of time to procure a bottle of Champagne-style sparkling wine. Today's recommendation: <strong>Gruet, </strong>made in New Mexico, of all places. But quite good! Basic non-vintage goes for under $20 a bottle.