Andrea's
3100 19th St, Metairie, LA 70002, USA
Metairie 2: Orleans Line To Houma Blvd
The restaurant identifies itself as Italian, and most of its customers think of it that way. But since its earliest days the most distinctive part of the kitchen's work involves seafood. Chef-Owner Andrea Apuzzo makes much of the fact that, with few exceptions, all the fish he serves are bought fresh, whole and filleted in house. It is not uncommon for there to be six or more species of finfish on hand, with pompano, red snapper, trout, redfish, puppy drum, salmon, Dover sole, amberjack and flounder usually available. ¶ The shellfish offering is no less comprehensive, with crabmeat, shrimp, oysters (shucked to order), mussels, clams, lobster and scallops almost always to be had. The range of preparation is equally strong, to the point where it's possible to say that the chef will cook his seafood in almost any imaginable way. It all adds up to a big enough seafood menu to stand alone. It's better than any other part of the menu.
Anecdotes & Analysis
The restaurant identifies itself as Italian, and most of its customers think of it that way. But since its earliest days the most distinctive part of the kitchen's work involves seafood. Chef-Owner Andrea Apuzzo makes much of the fact that, with few exceptions, all the fish he serves are bought fresh, whole and filleted in house. It is not uncommon for there to be six or more species of finfish on hand, with pompano, red snapper, trout, redfish, puppy drum, salmon, Dover sole, amberjack and flounder usually available. The shellfish offering is no less comprehensive, with crabmeat, shrimp, oysters (shucked to order), mussels, clams, lobster and scallops almost always to be had. The range of preparation is equally strong, to the point where it's possible to say that the chef will cook his seafood in almost any imaginable way. It all adds up to a big enough seafood menu to stand alone. It's better than any other part of the menu.
Backstory
Chef Andrea spent the first half of his long career as a hotel executive chef, winding up in New Orleans in that position at the Royal Orleans. In 1985 he and two cousins opened Andrea's in the former Etienne's in Metairie. In its early years, it became unquestionably the finest Italian restaurant ever to open in the area. Chef Andrea bought out his cousins after a few years, and the restaurant began to change and grow. Andrea's is now a very large restaurant, open lunch and dinner 364 days a year (closed Labor Day, because nobody dines out then). On top of that, it has a bar that has its own menu, and a lot of inside and outside catering. It's too big an operation for the fine points of old to be counted upon. In recent times, Andrea has turned over the everyday kitchen to Christian Rossit, a Venice native with a great track record around New Orleans. [caption id="attachment_24045" align="alignnone" width="500"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/Andreas-CaprilBlu.jpg" alt="The bar at Andrea's." width="500" height="335" class="size-full wp-image-24045" /> The bar at Andrea's.[/caption]
Dining Room
The restaurant feels distinctly suburban, but after importing Italian art and furnishings for many years the place has personality. The main dining room is bright and glittery, in a somewhat old-fashioned way. Private dining rooms, some capable of serving a hundred people, line up one after another. The new Capri Blu Bar is striking and comfortable, serving a menu of wood-oven pizza and appetizers. It has live entertainment many nights. The service staff is low-key and widely varying in competence. Chef Andrea himself spends a lot of time in the dining room, schmoozing the regulars.
Why It's Essential
The most useful aspect of Andrea's is that it's a white-tablecloth restaurant capable of serving a first-class repast made with excellent fresh ingredients, with excellent service and a seriously good wine list in pleasant surroundings. . . in Metairie. Where there are surprisingly few such restaurants. Another advantage: Andrea's is open all the time. [caption id="attachment_29480" align="alignnone" width="480"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/Andreas-Pompano-Adjusted.jpg" alt="Pompano." width="480" height="394" class="size-full wp-image-29480" /> Pompano.[/caption]
Why It's Good
Chef-owner Andrea Apuzzo is a classically trained chef who can rise to the heights of Italian cookery. He buys superb ingredients and makes many items from scratch (pasta, bread, cheeses, house-butchered meats). But with the exception of the seafood side of the menu, many preparations are unexciting, too far removed from the chef's own roots in Capri, and sometimes careless. When the place is on, it can't be beat in its specialties. But the inconsistencies can be maddening.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em> Prosciutto di Parma, melon Antipasto platter Frutti di mare portofino (seafood salad) Filet of beef carpaccio, Parmigiana reggiano, white truffle oil Shrimp caprese (sautéed with white wine, herbs, angel hair pasta Calamari, fried or sauteed with wine, olive oil, herbs Mussels marinara (steamed in a white wine sauce or tomato) Baked oysters Italian style Pasta e fagioli soup Minestrone milanese Stracciatella di Medici (beef and chicken broth, spinach, egg drops, parmesan cheese Insalata Caesar made tableside Arugula salad, tomato, shaved parmigiano Tomato and fresh mozzarella salad Capresi <em><strong>Pasta</strong></em> Crabmeat ravioli, Alfredo sauce Porcini mushroom ravioli Ravioli with veal, beef, cheese, meat sauce Linguine pesto Genovese Potato gnocchi with four-cheese sauce Risotto jazz (shrimp and crabmeat Littleneck clams aglio e olio Capelli de Andrea (angel hair, smoked salmon, vodka cream sauce, caviar <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em> Grilled salmon, white wine, sautéed spinach, lemon herb sauce Speckled trout with crabmeat, lemon cream sauce or amandine Red snapper "aqua pazza" (light tomato and herb sauce) Cioppino (light stew of mussels, clams, scallops, shrimp, crabmeat, squid, wine, herbs, tomatoes, linguine) Shrimp scampi arriabiata (spicy red sauce) or garlic butter Veal scaloppini piccata or marsala Veal scaloppini Maria Louisa (crabmeat, béarnaise) Roast chicken grande Veal osso buco Milanese (light brown sauce) Chicken or veal saltimbocca (prosciutto, ham, sage, fontina cheese) Filet of beef tenderloin, cognac-black peppercorn sauce T-bone steak Fiorentina ai ferri Ribeye steak pizzaiola Veal chop Valdostana (stuffed with prosciutto and Fontana) <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em> House-made gelato, lemon or raspberry sorbet Praline pecan cheesecake Chocolate mousse Zuppa inglese (trifle of sponge cake layered with cream, berries, Grand Marnier Tira mi su Cannoli siciliano Strawberry cake
Deficiencies
This would be a better restaurant if the menu were pared back at least by half. It shows over 100 dishes now. Most of the deleted dishes should be on the Creole side of the menu, which are the worst eats on the menu. Don't we have enough restaurants making gumbo, stuffed eggplant, red beans and bread pudding?
For Best Results
Find out whether Chef Andrea is present. He usually is, but when he's not, things can slip. The restaurant is overambitious, and often fills the facility with more people than can be served at the restaurant's best level. Overbooking occurs on holidays. The dining room staff seems always on the brink. If something isn't right, make a fuss and they'll start paying attention.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
2
Environment
1
Service
1
Value
2
Wine
Holiday Ratings
2
Christmas
0
Thanksgiving
2
New Year's Eve