Baru Bistro & Tapas
3700 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
Uptown 2: Washington To Napoleon
Anecdotes & Analysis
Baru, despite its offbeat cuisine and tight quarters, has three qualities that explain its popularity. First, it's on Magazine Street, certainly the hippest address in town for restaurants these days. Second, at least half of its menu is composed of tapas. We all love those small portions. The Spanish heritage makes it all entirely honest. Third--and this is a strange one--they have no alcoholoic beverages to sell. You bring your own whatever. Why this constitutes an attraction in these times in inexplicable, but hardly a day goes by when someone doesn't ask me for a list of restaurants where you can bring your own wine. (The answer to that, by the way, is that they all do.)
Backstory
Owner-chef Edgar Caro came here from Cartagena, Colombia, and his food accurately reflects that provenance. Baru is the name of a beach-lined island off the Colombian coast. As is common for certain addresses around New Orleans, a licensing problem keep Baru from serving alcohol, but their fresh fruit drinks are terrific.
Dining Room
The restaurant is in a colorful, mostly-lavender corner building where a small grocery store operated for decades. The interior is gaudier than the exterior, in tones of bright greens and yellows. Most of the tables are along two pillow-softened banquettes of minimal comfort. A half-dozen or so tables on the sidewalk under the balcony are popular, and sometimes fill before the dining room does.
Why It's Essential
Baru serves the food of Colombia, which has similarities to Central American, South American, and Caribbean food. There are even aspects of the cuisine that remind one of New Orleans. The small restaurant has an engaging, romantic quality that doesn't seem obvious, but it's clear that the many couples who dine here are charmed by the place and its food.
Why It's Good
The tapas part of the menu (appetizers, to translate) is interesting enough that you can make a full meal from it. Most of the entrees are better divided for two, anyway--notably the parrillada platter of grilled meats with chimichurri. Although seafood might seem to be the mainstay (and they do make great ceviche, among other things), it's the meat dishes that will leave the best impressions.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Tapas</strong></em><br /> »Ceviche (lime-cured fish, avocado)<br /> »Atun tartare (raw tuna, coconut oil, avocado)<br /> Langostinos (Colombian shrimp cocktail)<br /> Pimenton (roasted red pepper)<br /> »Mazorca (grilled corn, cheese, "pink sauce," potato sticks)<br /> Guacabello (grilled portobello, avocado)<br /> »Empanadas (picadillo beef in cornmeal pie)<br /> »Chuzos (grilled steak, shrimp, chorizo)<br /> »Ostras (fried oysters, aioli)<br /> Croquetas (fried balls of white fish and potatoes)<br /> »Tamalitos de cerdo (pork tamales)<br /> »Chicharrones (fried pork belly, garlic mojo)<br /> Arepas (white cornmeal cakes, beans, pulled pork)<br /> »Torticas de cangrejo (curried crab cakes, mango chutney)<br /> <em><strong>Salads</strong></em><br /> »Seared fresh tuna, local greens, tomatoes, avocado, ginger vinaigrette<br /> Coriander-crusted shrimp, mango, tomatoes, avocado, greens citrus vinaigrette<br /> »Crabmeat, hearts of palm, corn, avocado, greens, pickled red onions<br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> »Carne asada (skirt steak, cilantro potatoes, chorizo)<br /> »Flat iron grilled thick pork chop, fried yuca, wild mushrooms<br /> »Camarones al ajillo (fried shrimp, jicama slaw, Chihuahua cheese, jalapeño polenta)<br /> Guava-glazed duck breast, roasted garlic mofongo, grilled asparagus<br /> »Fried whole fish, coconut rice, mango slaw<br /> »Lechon Cubano (roast pork shoulder, falling apart)<br /> »Patacon con todo (grilled chicken, steak, chorizo, white cheese<br /> <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em><br /> »Sorbets (passionfruit, guanabana)<br /> »Tres leches cake
Deficiencies
The seating in the dining room is a bit too tight and hard to get in and out of. It would be nice for drinks and wine to be served, but that's out of the management's control (although they're working on it).
For Best Results
Make a reservation. This is a small, popular place. Be prepared to sit very close to someone else if you dine indoors. Try dishes that don't sound quite right; they're the best in the house. Bring your own wine, and be prepared to pay an $8 corkage fee per bottle.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
1
Environment
2
Hipness
2
Local Color
2
Value
Holiday Ratings
0
Thanksgiving
2
New Year's Eve