Commerce Restaurant
Backstory
The Commerce opened some fifty years ago, when the Central Business District was indeed full of both business and commerce. Then as now, it has been a source of quick lunches for people with less time than hunger, but with better food than most such places. Although it was renovated a bit after Katrina, it's little changed since I first went there in the 1960s and 1970s--the same line, the same tile floor, same menu more or less.
Dining Room
One large, long room with a tile floor, a high ceiling, and big windows creating a bright aspect. A small cafeteria line runs along one wall, with tables along the windows. The place is a bit torn, but in a comfortable way.
Why It's Essential
In many ways, the Commerce is a smaller version of Mother's, but without the lines. It offers a full assortment of poor boy sandwiches, plus all the Creole platters you'd expect of a place serving quick lunches for people with less time than hunger, but with better food than most such places.
Why It's Good
Most--perhaps all--of the cooking of things like roast beef and red beans and gumbo is done on the premises--a rarity in these days among restaurants of this style. The portions are big and the prices are low.
Most Interesting Dishes
Breakfast platters<br /> <em>Poor boys:</em><br /> Roast beef<br /> Grilled ham<br /> Fried seafood <br /> Daily plate specials<br /> Fried chicken <br /> Gumbo<br /> Bread pudding
Deficiencies
The Commerce has so many regulars that the way it operates may be a little mysterious to a first-timer.
For Best Results
Know that the roast beef here is more cut into chunks than sliced; that's an issue with some people. Tell them to go easy on the gravy; they really lay it on. If you try to avoid the crowds, it's better to go early than late.
Bonus Ratings
1
Local Color
1
Service
2
Value