Court of Two Sisters
Anecdotes & Analysis
During the holiday season, many locals like to visit the French Quarter for a measure of nostalgia. Not enough of them think of the Court of Two Sisters, which beckons the locals with, among other appeals, a very good Reveillon menu during most of December.<br /> <br /> It's a mistake to consign this finest of all patio-dining restaurants to the tourists. When you're in the mood for some Tennessee Williams-style New Orleans atmosphere, few restaurants are more appealing. And you probably haven't been there in a long time. The service staff is accommodating, but make sure they know you’re a local both when you make the reservation and meet the waiter.
Backstory
The building dates to the early 1830s. The story of the historic Two Sisters (there's a brochure) is charming. The restaurant as we know it opened in the 1960s. The current owners are now into their third generation.
Dining Room
Unless the weather is intolerable, service takes place in a large, brick-floored, wisteria-covered courtyard. It is a lovely place, day or night. A trio of jazz musicians plays every day during brunch. The interior rooms are less appealing but pleasant enough. Most have large windows opening into the courtyard. Old photos show diners in jacket and tie, but these days casual. (As in shorts and T-shirts in summer.)
Why It's Essential
Despite romantic impressions to the contrary, the French Quarter has few restaurants offering courtyard dining. Of them the most beautiful and famous is the Court of Two Sisters. Except when the weather is unbearable, they serve in the lushly-planted, expansive, brick-surrounded courtyard year round. The distinctly French Quarter environment and Creole food provide a unique taste of the city, and the service staff is welcoming and entertaining.
Why It's Good
After Katrina, the Court of Two Sisters revolutionized its kitchen. It shifted from serving almost everything from a long steam table to cooking most of the menu to order, bistro-style. By keeping many of its oldest dishes, it came full circle to merge with what a lot of hip bistros are cooking. It's still not the best food in town, but it's much better than is widely believed and quite enjoyable. The jazz brunch buffet--offered seven days a week--has all the issues of a buffet, but is otherwise beyond reproach.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em><br /> »Escargots, mushrooms, garlic-herb butter<br /> Grilled alligator sausage, sherry-Creole mustard cream<br /> Shrimp remoulade<br /> Lump crabmeat cocktail<br /> Crawfish maison <br /> »Two Sisters Three (crawfish maison, shrimp remoulade, crabmeat cocktail)<br /> Bacon-wrapped shrimp en brochette<br /> »Barbecue shrimp<br /> Fried oysters, crisp andouille sausage meunière<br /> Dinner salad, Creole french dressing, tasso, pecans<br /> Baby spinach salad, goat cheese, bacon, red onions<br /> Caesar salad<br /> »Turtle soup au sherry <br /> »Creole seafood gumbo <br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> Trout meunière or amandine<br /> Cornmeal fried Des Allemands catfish, jumbo lump crabmeat, cayenne tartare sauce <br /> »»Trout Picasso (broiled fillet, sautéed fresh seasonal fruit, pecans <br /> Crabmeat, shrimp and crawfish pasta, tomatoes, green onion parmesan cream <br /> Shrimp and grits<br /> Crabmeat au gratin, tasso hollandaise <br /> Jumbo shrimp and tasso, smothered okra, steamed rice <br /> »Chicken or veal Oscar, asparagus, lump crabmeat, tasso hollandaise<br /> »Fried oysters over baked Rockefeller spinach, bacon, béarnaise<br /> »Duck breast a l'orange, dirty rice, sweet potatoes, candied pecans<br /> Grilled filet mignon, new potato mash, asparagus, blue cheese compound butter, béarnaise<br /> »Blackened pork tenderloin, bacon and green pea risotto, marchand de vin sauce <br /> Eggplant napoleon, provolone, sautéed spinach, spicy Creole sauce (vegetarian)<br /> Chef's fish of the day<br /> <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em><br /> »Bread pudding<br /> Dessert specials<br /> »Bananas Foster<br /> Creme brulee
Deficiencies
The quality of the raw materials--especially among the seafood dishes--could be better. An air-conditioned dining room would be a nice option on hot days.
For Best Results
The daily brunch buffet ($30) beckons, and so does the $45 three-course dinner, but better food comes from the a la carte menu at dinner. Have a Sazerac at the bar before going to the table; it's the city's best.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
2
Environment
3
Local Color
1
Service
1
Value
1
Wine
Holiday Ratings
2
Christmas
0
Thanksgiving
2
New Year's Eve