Crabby's Seafood Shack
Anecdotes & Analysis
For those trying to cut down on their consumption of fried seafood (and the dietitians say that ought to be just about everyone in these parts), moving to the North Shore might be the easiest way. There never have been many seafood houses there, not even along the lakefront. That lists the relative importance of any good new fish joint that comes along. Even though Crabby's Seafood Shack is a bit out of the way (in Madisonville), it fills up almost every day with those of use who can't easily slake our seafood-platter hunger.
Backstory
Keith Young, of the eponymous deluxe steakhouse a mile north, opened Crabby's in 2013. It took over and heavily renovated Coffee's Boiling Pot, an old, very modest seafood house. It was a great improvement, but the new restaurant managed to come through it with an unambiguous family-style environment. And a lot more parking, which was still much needed in Crabby's early, hyper-popular days.
Dining Room
The L-shaped dining room angles around the bar and an open kitchen, all made more expansive by big windows. The walls are covered with neon and antique signs, not all of which have anything to do with food. It feels good and casual.
Why It's Essential
One of the North Shore's most instinctive and gregarious restaurateurs, Keith Young seems to have created Crabby's in total contrast to his opulent, excellent steak house. But the two places have something nice in common: a friendliness that makes you love the place from the first moment. This extends far beyond glad-handing to encompass good cooking, generosity, and low prices. The board specials are particularly inviting.
Why It's Good
The standard canon of casual seafood is here, from raw oysters on the half shell through boiled shrimp, crabs and crawfish in season, to fried fish and shellfish. Although seafood is obviously the specialty, they also run an interesting slate of neighborhood-style New Orleans eats: poor boy sandwiches, jambalaya, gumbo, and standards like red beans on their appointed days. All of this is good eating, typically served in portions too large to comfortably finish.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em> »Raw oysters »Boiled crawfish or shrimp in season Dungeness crab cluster »Seafood gumbo Seafood chowder House, caesar or spinach salad »Fried calamari, marinara »Fried frog legs »Shrimp remoulade Marinated or fried crab claws Onion rings »Panko-crusted stuffed shrimp or crab cakes Fried pickles or okra ~ <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em> »Fried catfish, shrimp, oysters or combo, with a side »Panko-crusted stuffed shrimp Frog legs Fried seafood mega-basket Jambalaya Seafood stuffed potato Entree salad with grilled chicken, boiled or grilled shrimp, fried oysters or crab cakes Meatballs & spaghetti »Crab cake, pasta & veggies »Swamp basket (catfish, frog legs, jambalaya) »Fried soft shell crab, shrimp bechamel & veggies ~ Poor Boy Sandwiches »Fried shrimp, oyster, or catfish Slow cooked roast beef Meatball, red gravy »Soft shell crab Hamburger »Hot sausage Chicken, grilled or fried ~ <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em> Banana pudding
Deficiencies
The fryer is the center of the kitchen, with almost no broiled or grilled items. The desserts could be tweaked.
For Best Results
Be sure to know about the daily specials. For example, how could any oyster lover pass up the six-bucks-a-dozen from the raw bar on recent Mondays?
Bonus Ratings
2
Attitude
1
Environment
1
Local Color
1
Service
2
Value