Eat
900 Dumaine St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA
French Quarter
Among the most delightful but least-discussed eateries in the French Quarter are the cafes catering to people who live there. That population has seen a long decline, as more residences become businesses. The result is that many of the old neighborhood places have shifted to the visitor trade, with the expected results. Eat has held off this unfortunate trend so well that it has a substantial following among both locals and people who visit New Orleans frequently.
Anecdotes & Analysis
Among the most delightful but least-discussed eateries in the French Quarter are the cafes catering to people who live there. That population has seen a long decline, as more residences become businesses. The result is that many of the old neighborhood places have shifted to the visitor trade, with the expected results. Eat has held off this unfortunate trend so well that it has a substantial following among both locals and people who visit New Orleans frequently.
Backstory
This corner has hosted neighborhood, breakfast-intensive restaurants for decades. The Quarter Scene was here for about twenty years until Katrina. Not long after the storm, Eat took over the space. It's one of a small local restaurant group that also includes Vacherie, Cafe on the Square and Between The Bread. The chef at Eat is Jarred Zeringue, a native.
Dining Room
Nearly everyone who has ever reported to me on Eat begins with the same sentence: "It's a cute little place." Cute: perfect for those looking for an escape from New Orleans funkiness. Little: it's really little. Tables and chairs fill the maximum amount of space without becoming inconvenient.
Why It's Essential
Although no New Orleans neighborhood has a bigger or better community of eateries, there's a big gap between the joints selling poor boys, pizza and basic seafood and the big-deal gourmet restaurants. Eat is one of the few restaurants that fill that breach, with middling prices to match.
Why It's Good
Eat cooks with no pretenses about setting the standard for New Orleans cookery or reinventing the cuisine. Its menu is easy to get one's head around, even for people with very basic tastes. The most adventuresome cooking is found on the weekend brunch menu. The food is dominated by Creole flavors, with more attention to delicacy and presentation than usual. Fried dishes--even fried chicken--are better than I expected.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Brunch</strong></em> Banana fritters Omelettes to order Eggs de Provence (baked in a black iron skillet with cream, herbs, bacon) Eggs Dauphine (poached, country ham, fried green tomatoes, hollandaise) Eggs Dumaine (veal grillades, poached eggs, hollandaise Pulled pork cake, mustard greens, poached eggs, Creole hollandaise Two-egg breakfast, bacon or sausage, grits, biscuit or toast Shrimp and grits <em><strong>Starters</strong></em> Blue cheese and fig torte Hog head cheese Spicy deviled eggs with bacon or smoked salmon Fried chicken livers with pepper jelly Chicken and andouille gumbo Roasted beet and goat cheese salad Blackened catfish sandwich Pork tenderloin, caramelized onions, baked macaroni and cheese Barbecue shrimp New York strip, herb compound butter Roasted stuffed bell peppers Chicken and dumplings Eggplant and shrimp casserole Chicken fried chicken Fried catfish Cochon with mustard greens White beans with ham Butterbeans with shrimp
Deficiencies
The biggest problem here is the relaxed pace of service. I think this may owe entirely to the kitchen's minute size. I can't say it bothers me, but it always takes about ten minutes longer to eat here than it seems like it should.
For Best Results
Not a place to come in a hurry. Arriving early in the meal period might get a prized window table. Because of the proximity of St. Louis Cathedral School, this location will never have a liquor license. So bring your own wine: no corkage fee for the first bottle, $15 a bottle thereafter.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
1
Environment
2
Local Color
1
Service
1
Value