Frank's
Backstory
Frank Gagliano opened his muffuletta shop on Decatur Street in 1965. The Italian culture still dominated that part of the Quarter, as it had for 75 years. When his sons came of age the operation expanded into a neighborhood-style, full-menu restaurant. One of the brothers left a few years to open his own restaurant--Ristorante Filippo in Metairie.
Dining Room
The bottom floor could be anywhere in Italy, with its crammed-in counter, tables, cases of beer, wine racks, and service bar. The setup is to facilitate the sale of muffulettas at lunch. It's not at all unpleasant for dinner, but upstairs is a nicer room with a balcony overlooking the river. The steepness of that climb keep the more colorful older waiters downstairs, though--and joking around with the waiters is part of the fun. I always stay downstairs.
Why It's Essential
To the New Orleanian who doesn't come down to the French Quarter much, Frank's looks like an opportunistic tourist joint. And like all businesses in the neighborhood of the French Market, visitors are a large part of the clientele. But Frank's credentials as a real New Orleans Italian restaurant go two generations deep, and eating there is surprisingly good. The place specializes in muffulettas by day, with local Italian standards cooked carefully into the night.
Why It's Good
In the era when the Central Grocery and Progress Grocery ruled the muffuletta universe, Frank's kept right up with them--on the same block, yet. Its muffs are still among the best around. At dinner, it's hard to ignore the aromas of garlic, olive oil, herbs, and tomato sauce. The olfactory promises are fulfilled by big platters (there is no other size here) of pasta, seafood, veal, chicken, and steaks, all wrapped with one of those old-time, Sicilian-inspired, long-cooked, sweet, smooth red sauces. Or Alfredo or aglio olio. It's all good.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em><br /> Mussels marinara<br /> Fried crawfish tails<br /> Crawfish cakes, crawfish sauce<br /> »Fried calamari<br /> »Crabmeat stuffed mushrooms<br /> »Stuffed artichoke <br /> Frank's tossed salad<br /> »»Italian olive salad<br /> »Caprese salad (fresh mozzarella, tomato, basil)<br /> Seafood gumbo<br /> »Corn & crab bisque<br /> »Oyster & artichoke soup<br /> <em><strong>Sandwiches</strong></em><br /> »Muffuletta<br /> Hamburger<br /> <em>Poor boys: </em><br /> »Roast beef<br /> Genoa salami<br /> »Italian sausage<br /> Fried shrimp, oysters, catfish, or stuffed crab<br /> Ferdi (ham, Swiss & roast beef)<br /> Homemade meatball<br /> Ham & Swiss<br /> Veggie<br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> Fried shrimp, oysters, catfish, stuffed crab or combo platter<br /> Shrimp or crawfish (or both) Gagliano<br /> »Chicken or veal parmigiana<br /> »Chicken or veal marsala<br /> »Chicken or veal piccata <br /> »Pasta marinara<br /> »Pasta & Italian sausage<br /> Pasta marinara with shrimp<br /> »Pasta & meatballs<br /> Ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese<br /> Fettuccine alfredo with crawfish or shrimp<br /> Red beans & rice, smoked sausage or ham<br /> Rib-eye steak, baked potato<br /> Filet mignon, baked potato<br /> <em><strong>Desserts </strong></em><br /> »Cannoli<br /> »Tiramisu <br />
Deficiencies
They need to clear away about twenty-five percent of the stuff stacked about the main dining room.
For Best Results
Ask to have the muffuletta unheated. At dinner, ask the waiter what he might be able to get the kitchen to do specially for you. It doesn't seem that everything they serve is actually on the menu.
Bonus Ratings
2
Attitude
3
Local Color
1
Service
1
Value