Franklin
Anecdotes & Analysis
Most restaurants in the exceedingly fertile Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods have leaned heavily on the inventory of old, funky and industrial buildings in that district. Excepting only the French Quarter, this is the only major restaurant concentration that has a more or less uniform environmental style. The Franklin breaks out of that convincingly, and already has attracted many diners who previously might not have entered the area.
Backstory
The 70-seat restaurant opened May 2 with chef/urban farmer Jim Bremer at the helm, which might be why a deep respect for seasonal produce runs through The Franklin’s menu. Tippen, who was Bremer’s sous chef, maintains that integrity with innovative vegetable and salad pairings like a recent arugula with satsumas, serrano ham and goat cheese. The face of the restaurant is partner and Marigny resident Jason Baas, familiar from past gigs at Atchafalaya, Bacchanal, and a decade managing Lilette. The main investors are Michael Wilkinson (who supplied the art on the walls) and developer Patrick Finney.
Dining Room
The glow of the backlit amber bar is almost as intoxicating as the Franklin’s version of the French 75 made with 10-year-old cognac, Rothman Orchard Peach and a rose sparkler. Design features include a quilted ivory leather ceiling, industrial light pendants at the bar as well as a few long communal high top tables. Rolled leather banquettes line one dining room, which is divided from the bar by vaguely Asian-looking open screening. A mesmerizing portrait of a woman’s face in water by artist Alyssa Monks dominates one room. The overall effect is intimate and inviting.
Why It's Essential
Lost Love may be across the street, but it's hard to find a better date-night setting than The Franklin. It's an improbably drop-dead gorgeous, French-ish restaurant holding down the upriver corner of Dauphine at Franklin in the Marigny. The Franklin skips over the usual quirky downtown vibe in exchange for an elegant setting worthy of chef Zack Tippen’s refined, also French-inspired seasonal cuisine. The wine and cocktail lists are the work of Franklin Buist, formerly the sommelier at Atchafalaya. Here is a restaurant that lives in New Orleans, but could be at home in just about any big city. Expect a spendy but a very good evening of dining.
Why It's Good
The menu pairs the best seasonal local bounty with classic French technique, a winning combo that delivers swoon-worthy flavors. A thick seafood gumbo swirls with deep shellfish notes, while a large portion of mussels tastes downright restrained in a delicate fennel and white wine sauce. Most of the small plates are intriguing, raw and grilled oysters are always on the menu, and a perfect coq au vin was in perfect tune with the chilly weather. Desserts lean in the direction of savory flavors, too.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em>The menu changes often. </em> Raw Fish of the Day Escargot Eclair <em>Blue Cheese Mousse and Persillade </em> »»Steak a la Mode <em>Foie gras ice cream </em> Steak and Strawberry Tartare <em>Quail egg, and balsamico </em> Mussels <em>White wine, capers, pommes frites, aioli </em> Arugula Salad <em>Satsumas, serrano ham, goat cheese</em> Fried Oysters, White Remoulade Raw Oysters Grilled Oysters <em>Garlic butter and parmigiano</em> Oyster Stew Sauteed Black Drum <em>Asparagus and grapefruit-tarragon meuniere </em> Courtbouillon of Gulf Seafood <em>Mussels in crab broth </em> Sauteed Redfish, Lump Crabmeat <em>Brown rice leaf wrap and tomato cream </em> Seared Pork Loin <em>Brussels sprouts, bacon and blue cheese </em> Fried Chicken and Biscuits <em>Braised collard greens </em> Coq au Vin <em>Lardons and onion rings </em> Grilled Sweetbeads with Braised Oxtail <em>Pickled root vegetables</em> Bruleed Ginger-Studded Plantain <em>Spiced creme anglaise </em> Quince-Almond-Goat Cheese Tart <em>Honey ice cream </em>
Deficiencies
The no-reservations bit is something we'd like to see dropped.
For Best Results
Inquire of and pay heed to the servers' ideas of what might wow you.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
2
Environment
2
Hipness
3
Local Color
2
Service
2
Value
2
Wine