GW Fins
808 Bienville St, New Orleans, LA 70112, USA
French Quarter
It's not well appreciated by restaurant patrons how difficult it is for a restaurant to serve consistently top-class seafood. Even here in New Orleans, it's a challenge for a restaurant to track down the good stuff. Part of this is because the resource is waning, but even more vexing is the inconsistency of availability. So the two owners of GW Fins--both of whom came into the business with full knowledge of the situation--must at times have wondered whether they were out of their minds to attempt a fish-specialized menu with a dozen species on the menu on a bad day. It is a testimonial to their skill that they have pulled it off. Thereby, they have created the best seafood restaurant in New Orleans.
Anecdotes & Analysis
It's not well appreciated by restaurant patrons how difficult it is for a restaurant to serve consistently top-class seafood. Even here in New Orleans, it's a challenge for a restaurant to track down the good stuff. Which makes the feats performed by Tenney Flynn incomparable. He's the chef and co-owner GW Fins. Every day, he finds and brings in some dozen different species of finfish in his cooler--to say nothing of the shellfish, of which he gets just as many varieties. Then he develops individualistic recipes for all of it. The inventory includes no junk. No tilapia, no Southeast Asian catfish or shrimp, no green-lip mussles, no mystery fish. And no frozen fish. He carries his quest forward in some astonishing ways. Lately, for example, Tenney has been known to go scuba-like spearfishing in the Gulf, coming back with the likes of lionfish--the voracious, poison-spine-bearing, invasive fish that taste pretty good after they're cleaned. Meanwhile, back on dry land, co-owner Gary Wollerman tends to the dining room, promotion, and wine list. Together the two men have created far and away the best seafood restaurant in New Orleans. [caption id="attachment_44005" align="alignnone" width="480"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/GWFins-Scalibut-480x319.jpg" alt="Scalibut." width="480" height="319" class="size-large wp-image-44005" /> Scalibut.[/caption]
Backstory
Owners Gary Wollerman and Tenney Flynn were the top guys in the Ruth's Chris Steak House operation nationwide until Ruth sold to the corporate guys. They left to start GW Fins in 2001. They later opened and shortly closed a French Quarter barbecue joint called Zydeque. Next came a copy of GW Fins in Charlotte, NC. That didn't fly, either. Meanwhile, GW Fins just kept getting better. [caption id="attachment_44002" align="alignnone" width="480"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/GWFins-DRBusy-480x319.jpg" alt="GW Fins on a busy night." width="480" height="319" class="size-large wp-image-44002" /> GW Fins on a busy night.[/caption]
Dining Room
An old D.H. Holmes warehouse, rebuilt without completely removing all the industrial-look stuff, begat a sharp, modern dining space. Space, in fact, is the key word. Lots of it between the tables, floor to ceiling, in the bar, in the bathrooms, everywhere. The wall of windows in front allows a great view of Arnaud’s, across the street.
Why It's Essential
GW Fins does with seafood what the prime steakhouses do with beef. The kitchen’s main task is finding top-quality finfish and shellfish wherever it is to be found. Surprisingly few restaurants put forth much effort in that direction, making any that do stand out. Fins' co-owner/chef Tenney Flynn's seafood procurement machine brings great surprises to the table every night. Right now, the restaurant is in the throes of its annual Fins Feast--their summertime promotion, with three courses for $40ish. [caption id="attachment_38553" align="alignnone" width="295"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/GWFins-CrabCake.jpg" alt="Crab cake." width="295" height="245" class="size-full wp-image-38553" /> Crab cake.[/caption]
Why It's Good
Fish being the elusive ingredient that it is, no good fish house has the same resources every day. GW Fins prints a new menu every day to reflect its discoveries, with a dozen or more species of finfish every day. Half are local, half exotic. That's also true of the cooking style. You can get a great sauteed redfish with crabmeat on top like you can everywhere else, or something completely unique. Occasional special menus bring forth rare items like Australian crabs, Pacific salmon, and exotic tunas. All of this is prepared simply and very well, in portions substantial enough so you can taste the stuff. [caption id="attachment_36628" align="alignnone" width="400"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/GWFins-LobsterDumplings.jpg" alt="Lobster dumplings." width="400" height="343" class="size-full wp-image-36628" /> Lobster dumplings.[/caption]
Most Interesting Dishes
<em>Menu changes daily, but a few dishes are usually there (if the fish is available):</em> Seafood gumbo Lobster dumplings Smoked, sizzling oysters on the shell Tuna tartare and sashimi Horseradish-crusted drum Short-smoked salmon Sea scallops with mushroom risotto Wood-grilled pompano Grilled lamb chops Baked-to-order apple pie White chocolate bread pudding Valhrona Chocolate Cake
Deficiencies
They could use more appetizers, although it's hard to get past the grilled oysters and the lobster dumplings, both of which are signature specialties. I wish they were open for Friday lunches throughout the year. (They are only during the holidays.)
For Best Results
If a special menu is running, give it priority. Don't eat too many of the complimentary sweet drop biscuits they pass around at the beginning. Spend more time than usual with the menu, on the back of which is a large wine list with dozens of wines by the glass.
Bonus Ratings
2
Attitude
2
Environment
1
Hipness
2
Local Color
1
Service
1
Value
2
Wine
Holiday Ratings
0
Thanksgiving
3
New Year's Eve