Impastato's
3400 16th St, Metairie, LA 70002, USA
Metairie 2: Orleans Line To Houma Blvd
One of the most important goals a restaurant must have is a good source of first-class raw materials. Even in the realm of seafood--which you'd think should be very abundant in our part of the world, but isn't--the person who buys food for a restaurant kitchen must either 1) pay top dollar; b) know somebody well-connected to the commercial fishermen; or iii) spend a lot of time on the phone tracking the every-changing seafood markets. Joe Impastato and his brother Sal do all three of those things. At Impastato's, for example, I often find soft-shell crabs when nobody else has them. Live soft-shells, at that. Can't fake that.
Anecdotes & Analysis
One of the most important goals a restaurant must have is a good source of first-class raw materials. Even in the realm of seafood--which you'd think should be very abundant in our part of the world, but isn't--the person who buys food for a restaurant kitchen must either 1) pay top dollar; b) know somebody well-connected to the commercial fishermen; or iii) spend a lot of time on the phone tracking the every-changing seafood markets. Joe Impastato and his brother Sal do all three of those things. At Impastato's, for example, I often find soft-shell crabs when nobody else has them. Live soft-shells, at that. Can't fake that. [caption id="attachment_43066" align="alignnone" width="480"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/ImpastatoCellars-ShrimpRem-480x403.jpg" alt="Shrimp Capri (or remoulade, if you prefer)." width="480" height="403" class="size-large wp-image-43066" /> Shrimp Capri (or remoulade, if you prefer).[/caption]
Backstory
[caption id="attachment_34291" align="alignleft" width="133"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Impastatos-JoeImpastato-133x200.jpg" alt="Joe Impastato." width="133" height="200" class="size-medium wp-image-34291" /> Joe Impastato.[/caption] <p><span class="ReviewSections">BACKSTORY </span> Joe Impastato is one of two Sicilian-born brothers (the other operates Sal & Judy's on the North Shore) who got a feel for the New Orleans palate from Jimmy Moran at the old La Louisiane. The brothers opened their own restaurants in 1978. Impastato's took over an existing restaurant called Joe Soab's, at a time when a major commercial boom was underway in the area. Joe let it be known that Saints players were always welcome as his guests, and they started hanging out there.
Dining Room
Two rooms: a busy, convivial main room with walls and ceilings covered with stained glass. And a smaller room off the bar, with a staggering collection of first-class sports memorabilia (i.e., a helmet from every NFL team, signed by its biggest stars). The bar also features the Sinatra-style singing of Roy Picou every night. The service staff has been here a long time and does its job well, especially if you're a regular.
Why It's Essential
Impastato's is the definitive restaurant for New Orleans-Sicilian cooking. A strong base of enthusiastic regular customers comes for the homemade pasta prepared tableside, the buttery seafood dishes, and the standard red-sauce range. Dining here is an exceptional value, particularly when it involves the five-course dinners available for prices in the mid-$30s all night every night. [caption id="attachment_35020" align="alignnone" width="480"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Impastatos-OystersHeebe2.jpg" alt="Oysters Heebe (Italian style)" width="480" height="318" class="size-full wp-image-35020" /> Oysters Heebe (Italian style)[/caption]
Why It's Good
Certain dishes here are matched in goodness only by the same items at Sal and Judy's (see below). The paper-thin, made-in-house fettuccine is so perfect and light that, for all its simplicity, it's the dish that lingers in the memory. Variations on a sauce of lemon, butter, sherry, crabmeat, shrimp, artichokes, and mushrooms appear throughout the menu; all of these are delicious, particularly the fish and soft-shell crabs. Portions are generous. The bar makes exceptionally good drinks.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em> Seafood-stuffed mushrooms with crabmeat Crabmeat cannelloni Sauteed crab fingers Crawfish Nonna (cream sauce, Cajun seasoning) Fried calamari Baked oysters Heebe (bread crumbs, garlic, oregano, olive oil) <em><strong>Pasta</strong></em> Fettuccine Alfredo Pasta ascuitta (light, spicy tomato sauce) enne all'arrabbiata (spicy red sauce and cream sauce) Baked lasagna Ricotta ravioli <em><strong>Salads</strong></em> Seafood salad for two (lobster, crabmeat, shrimp, crawfish, olive oil, lemon juice) House salad (artichokes, salami, cheeses, black olives, anchovies, tomatoes) Fish or veal or soft-shell crab with lemon butter and sherry, with mushrooms, artichoke, crabmeat, shrimp, or any combination of those four ingredients) Fish amandine Steamed Maine lobster Braciolone (sliced beef, rolled around sausage, ham, boiled egg, Parmesan cheese) Spiedini (roast pork or veal, Italian stuffing, fried on a skewer) Osso buco Veal pannee Pecan-smoked filet mignon Rack of lamb for two <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em> Blueberry-banana pie Cannoli Torroncino Cassata Spumoni
Deficiencies
The goodness of the food varies across the menu. Steaks, for example, are just okay. Desserts are also not a strong course. Regulars get seating preference, sometimes delaying those waiting. Show up early to avoid this.
For Best Results
Ask the waiter what kind of fish is available; there's usually more than what you're initially told. If the only fish they have is tilapia, get the soft-shell crab or veal version of the same dish. Make reservations even for weeknights. Although a five-course dinner seems excessive, get it anyway. Nothing is held back in terms of quality or portion size.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
1
Environment
1
Local Color
2
Service
2
Value
1
Wine
Holiday Ratings
0
Thanksgiving
2
New Year's Eve