Kazoku Sushi
Anecdotes & Analysis
If it seems that sushi bars are popping up like mushrooms after a month of rain, know that they are. Western St. Tammany Parish has had a particularly large number of openings--too many, I'd say. I hope (and believe) that Kazoku will be one of the survivors. Chef-owner Wilson and his family run a sharp, delicious and entertaining operation.
Backstory
For years Wilson Fung was one of the chefs at the excellent Little Tokyo on the other side of town. There he built a following not only for his expertise at making sushi, but for his irrepressible joking around with customers. He opened his own place in mid-2010. The name translates into "family." This is appropriate. Wilson's son is the sous sushi chef, while his daughters run the dining room.
Dining Room
Kazoku is in a new strip mall at the junction of LA 59 and 1088. It's a long, bright, colorful room with high ceilings. The sushi bar doesn't seem quite big enough, but I've never had a problem finding a place there. The place is surrounded by convenience restaurants, one of which is a doughnut shop.
Why It's Essential
In sushi bars that have established themselves well, there's a camaraderie around the sushi bar. The regulars know the chefs and vice-versa, and there's a lot of kidding around back there. Kazoku is a marvelous example of that. The entire Fung family is welcoming and happy. Their work both at the sushi bar and in the kitchen is first-class.
Why It's Good
Kazoku's extraordinary web site gives a good rendering of what they do here. Their next-door neighbor is a professional photographer and did a major portfolio of photos of Kazoku's food. All the standards are here, plus a few innovations. I especially like the sushi trios: one kind of fish prepared three different ways for a single six-dollar serving. For example, salmon made into a chopped, spicy concoction wrapped with seaweed, a piece of blowtorch-seared salmon, and one standard raw slice nigiri style.
Most Interesting Dishes
This is only about a third of the menu, the bulk of which is taken up with a dizzying cast of special rolls. The entire menu, along with dozens of great photos of the dishes, are on the restaurant's website. <br /> <em><strong>starters</strong></em></strong></em><br /> Baked green mussel<br /> Baked seafood<br /> »Baked salmon<br /> Calamari snowcrab<br /> Crispy snow balls<br /> »Coconut shrimp appetizer<br /> »Gyoza (dumplings)<br /> »Hamachi kama (yellowtail neck) Sesame chicken<br /> Squid steak<br /> Tofu steak<br /> Tuna steak<br /> »Yakitori<br /> Tempura appetizers<br /> »Tuna tartare<br /> Seafood salad<br /> »Seaweed or squid salad<br /> Salmon skin salad<br /> Scallops avocado salad<br /> Snow crab avocado salad<br /> »Tuna tokyo salad<br /> »Sashimi<br /> »Sushi<br /> <em></em>Sushi rolls:<br /> Angel roll<br /> »Burning man roll<br /> Caterpillar roll<br /> Calamari crunchy roll <br /> »Dancing tuna roll <br /> Dragon roll <br /> Green flower roll <br /> »Rice paper roll<br /> »Scallop roll<br /> Sky roll<br /> »Soybean paper roll<br /> Tiger roll<br /> »Tuna nurito roll <br /> Volcano roll <br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> Beef teriyaki <br /> »Chicken teriyaki <br /> »Chicken katsu <br /> Salmon teriyaki <br /> »Seafood tempura <br /> »Chirashi sushi deluxe <br /> <em><strong>Dessert</strong></em><br /> Ice cream (red bean/green tea/vanilla/mango) <br /> »Tempura ice cream<br /> »Tempura cheesecake <br /> Sorbet<br /> Mochi<br />
Deficiencies
The menu could do with more range in the cooked department. This is Mandeville, after all, and not everybody has graduated into sushi yet.
For Best Results
Have a conversation with Wilson or his son before ordering anything, and take their advice. As always, steer away from the rolls dominated by crab salad.
Bonus Ratings
2
Attitude
1
Environment
1
Hipness
1
Service
1
Value