Kenner Seafood
Anecdotes & Analysis
Usually so busy that you'll have to wait in line for a table, Kenner Seafood is both a restaurant and a small seafood market. In the latter, they specialize in boiled seafood, and seem to go to greater lengths than most places to obtain crustaceans to render red and spicy. That's the best part of this place. At the tables, you're offered the entire spectrum of local casual seafood--fried, stuffed, broiled, or grilled. The menu is fleshed out with a long list of poor boys and a few miscellaneous platters, all at prices a shade below the market average. For reasons that elude me, the clientele is rabidly enthusiastic about the food here. I was stopped four times on the way to the table one night and touted on six dishes. At eating time, though, I've had absolutely nothing here that rose above the level of ordinariness. What wasn't overfried was underfried. What wasn't oily was dry. And the only way I can figure that somebody would be impressed by the likes of the crabmeat au gratin or the oyster Rockefeller soup is that they've never had another version anywhere else. I must be missing something, because this is one jam-packed house full of satisfied customers. Convenience, maybe? I don't live in Kenner.
Backstory
Kenner Seafood opened in 1997 in the University City section of Kenner, a neighborhood full of modest family homes. Most of the residents are drenched in New Orleans culture and immediately recognized a classic local seafood house when they saw one.
Dining Room
After driving up to a stark building with the look of a parts store on the outside, you enter a much nicer-looking dining room, with brick walls and brick-reminiscent floors. It's longer than it is wide, with the bar adding to that dimension. The bar is always busy with those waiting for tables. Even the regulars have to admit that the service is something less than sharp. I suspect that most of what I've eaten here would have been better had it been delivered sooner. Make a big point of getting your boiled seafood hot.
Why It's Essential
Usually so busy that you may have to wait in line for a table, Kenner Seafood is both a restaurant and a small seafood market. In the latter, they specialize in boiled seafood, and seem to go to greater lengths than most places to obtain crustaceans to render red and spicy. So you might see boiled crabs here when nobody else in town has them.
Why It's Good
The major specialty is boiled seafood, and seem to go to greater lengths than most places to obtain crustaceans to render red and spicy. So you might see boiled crabs here when nobody else in town has them. Beyond the menu of boiled seafood, the restaurant offers the entire spectrum of local casual seafood--fried, stuffed, broiled, or grilled. The menu is fleshed out with a long list of poor boys and a few miscellaneous platters, all at prices a shade below the market average.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em><br /> »Boiled crabs, crawfish, or shrimp »Wop salad (sic)<br /> Grilled or blackened shrimp salad<br /> »Shrimp cocktail or remoulade<br /> Shrimp salad stuffed tomato <br /> »Oyster Rockefeller soup<br /> »Oyster artichoke soup<br /> Crawfish corn chowder<br /> Seafood gumbo<br /> Crabmeat mirliton soup<br /> Chicken andouille gumbo<br /> Fried okra<br /> Fried eggplant<br /> Onion blossom<br /> Crawfish blossom<br /> »Fried artichoke hearts<br /> Oysters on the half shell<br /> Sauteed or fried crab fingers<br /> Fried crab fingers<br /> Crabmeat au gratin<br /> Onion rings<br /> Jalapeno hush puppies<br /> Mozzarella sticks<br /> Fried buffalo wings<br /> Crab cakes<br /> Stuffed mushrooms<br /> Fried pickles<br /> »Oysters bordelaise<br /> »Soft shell crab bordelaise<br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> Red beans and rice<br /> Fried shrimp Creole<br /> Spaghetti and meatballs<br /> Shrimp, veal, chicken, or eggplant parmesan<br /> Chicken alfredo<br /> Primavera alfredo<br /> Shrimp or crawfish pasta<br /> »Catfish, shrimp, crawfish or soft-shell crab Marie<br /> Chicken fried steak<br /> Open face roast beef<br /> Hamburger steak<br /> »Fried seafood platters (shrimp, oyster, catfish, tilapia, grouper, redfish, stuffed crab, soft shell crab, frog legs, or combos)<br /> Grilled or barbecue pork chop<br /> Grilled or barbecue chicken breasts<br /> »Fried chicken<br /> <em><strong>Poor boy sandwiches</strong></em><br /> »Fried seafood (shrimp, oyster, catfish, crawfish, stuffed crab, soft shell crab)<br /> Turkey<br /> Ham (cold or grilled)<br /> »Roast beef<br /> »Hot or smoked sausage<br /> Chicken fried steak<br /> Veal cutlet<br /> French fry <br /> Meatball<br /> Hamburger <br /> »Italian muffatetta <br /> »Seafood muffatetta<br /> »Fried seafood boats (shrimp, crawfish, oyster, catfish, combos)<br /> <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em><br /> »Bread pudding<br /> Gourmet turtle cheese cake<br /> »Grandmother's carrot cake<br />
Deficiencies
The menu is too extensive, acting more as a price list than as a list of specialties. The fried seafood was always either under- or over-fried, in my experience.
For Best Results
I suspect that most of what I've eaten here would have been better had it been delivered sooner. Make a big point of getting your boiled seafood hot.
Bonus Ratings
1
Local Color
1
Value