Lilette
3637 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115, USA
Uptown 2: Washington To Napoleon
Backstory
Harris spent some time in France in between gigs at Bayona and Gautreau's (he was executive chef at the latter), and picked up the inspiration for Lilette there. He was on the cover of Food and Wine Magazine in 2002 as one of the hot new chefs of the year.
Dining Room
The building is a fine old Magazine Street store, with high ceilings and many windows. The airy, loose feeling in the single large dining room makes the restaurant seem bigger than it is. The specials are written on a chalkboard above a few banquettes; both touches lend a convincing French bistro ambiance.
Why It's Essential
In a time when the city is full of French bistros, this one is unique. The menu is unlike any other hereabouts, using offbeat ingredients in polished recipes. The many regular customers give the place a clubby feeling, without excluding newcomers.
Why It's Good
The kitchen pursues an imaginative, New Orleans-tinged approach to French country cooking. Chef John Harris breaks away from the typical dishes and offers more exotic things--in every sense of the word. Lots of the raw materials--including about half the seafood--comes from far away. That alone gives the menu distinction. The daily specials are numerous and deserve priority attention before you peruse the printed card.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em>Starters:</em><br /> Hanger steak tartare<br /> Raw fish of the day <br /> Grilled beets with goat cheese and walnuts<br /> Alaskan king crab claws with passionfruit butter<br /> White truffle parmigiano toast with wild mushrooms, marrow and veal glace<br /> Duck confit with arugula and Banyuls vinaigrette<br /> Steamed mussels with red wine and cream<br /> Sizzling shrimp with lemon oregano vinaigrette<br /> Sweet fried beef short ribs<br /> Potato gnocchi with sage brown butter<br /> Boudin noir<br /> Escargots with mushrooms and Calvados cream<br /> Spanish Anchovies with stewed onions<br /> Eggplant crisps with skordalia and olives<br /> Artisinal cheese plate <br /> Littleneck clam chowder<br /> Chicken broth with leeks, tomato, soft poached egg <br /> Raw salad of Brussels sprouts, beets, fennel, Banyuls vinaigrette<br /> Braised veal cheeks with baby greens<br /> Hearts of palm with lemon<br /> <em>Mains: </em><br /> Roasted chicken breast with Brussels sprouts, <br /> balsamic glazed onions, mushroom vinaigrette<br /> Grilled hanger steak with fries and marrow bordelaise<br /> Muscovy duck breast with satsuma coriander jus <br /> Fried Kurobuta pork belly<br /> Braciola with creamy polenta<br /> Bouillabaisse<br /> Paneed black drum, verjus mussel butter<br /> Grilled Hawaiian spearfish, satsuma-basil butter<br /> <em>Desserts:</em><br /> Nutella custard with caramel cream and chocolate-hazelnut brittle <br /> Quenelles of goat cheese, crème fraiche, pears, pistachios, lavender honey<br /> Mascarpone panna cotta with strawberry sorbet<br /> Chocolate brioche bread pudding, orange caramel<br /> Prosecco float with blood orange sorbet<br /> Ice cream trio and cookies du jour<br /> Sorbet<br /> Cheese plate<br />
Deficiencies
The tables are too close together. For a restaurant with such obvious innovative abilities, the regular menu is surprisingly steady.
For Best Results
This is an unusually good place to try dishes and foods you never heard of or tried before. Plenty of them are here, and the kitchen's skills insure a polished version of whatever catches your eye.
Bonus Ratings
1
Environment
2
Hipness
2
Local Color
1
Service
2
Wine
Holiday Ratings
0
Thanksgiving
2
New Year's Eve