Mais Arepas
1200 Carondelet St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
Warehouse District & Center City
Backstory
Mais Arepas opened in early 2013, the brainchild of former Baru Bistro partner David Mantilla. He hails from Cali, on the Pacific coast of Colombia. That background brings an assortment of dishes different from that of the more familiar Caribbean side of the country, and you begin to see some Peruvian influence.
Dining Room
The location is right on the line that separates Center City from the unchic side of the Warehouse District, a half-block uptown from the elevated expressway. The neighborhood is full of grand old mansions, and is beginning to turn around. Some people might find it sketchy, especially given the scarce lighting at night. That has not kept the two cool dining rooms from filling up almost every night. The bar is a good place to eat. The servers are fully bilingual and give great explanations and recommendations.
Why It's Essential
Who would have guessed that the most interesting cuisine to receive local emphasis this year would be the food of Colombia? We find ourselves with four (maybe even five, depending on where you draw the border) restaurants serving the food you'd eat and love if you were to travel to Cartagena. One of them is a credible candidate for best new restaurant of any kind in 2013. Its name (pronounced "mah-EESS ah-RHEP-ahss") is also that of the central menu item. Arepas are the tortillas of Colombia, made with more or less the same cornmeal masa that also makes soft corn tortillas for Mexican tacos, but much thicker--about a quarter inch or more. They're grilled and used to make sandwiches of almost anything you can think of, with the emphasis on grilled meats.
Why It's Good
While arepas are involved in at least half the menu items, the rest of them show a broad variety. Only a few of the dish names will be familiar (ceviche, tostadas, empanadas) but even those will be different enough from what you've found under those monikers in other Latin American eateries. The descriptions may sound repetitive, but many excellent, unique meals can be had. The ceviche, made very spicy, may be the best I've ever eaten.The ceviche, made very spicy, may be the best I've ever eaten. Start with a glass of the freshly-made sangria, with some plantain chips with a side order of "pink sauce."
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em><br /> Tostadas de platano with valluno (fried green plantains, onions, tomatos, and peppers)<br /> »»Ceviche de camaron valluno (shrimp, lemon juice, tomatoes, red onions, cilantro, jalapenos, avocado<br /> >Maiz de la rueda (grilled corn on the cob, butter, aioli, cotija cheese)<br /> »Mini-arepa sampler (skirt steak, pulled pork with cotija cheese, shredded chicken with avocado & peppers)<br /> »Aborrajados (ripe, sweet plantain fritters, melted mozzarella) cheese <b /> Chicharepa (fried pork belly, lettuce, hot peppers, avocado puree)<br /> »Huevona (scrambled eggs, onions & tomatoes, ham, Creole sauce, mozzarella)<br /> »Empanadas caleñas (cornmeal pies filled with shredded beef, Creole potatoes, hot peppers, onions)<br /> Chuzos (skirt steak and chicken skewers, onions and peppers) <br /> Ensalada de la casa (house salad)<br /> <br /> <br /> <em><strong>Entree arepas</strong></em><br /> »Cerda (pulled pork, ripe plantains, pickled onions, cotija cheese).<br /> »Chori-arepa (Spanish chorizo, avocado purée, pepper, onions, mozzarella)<br /> »Mechada (skirt steak, ripe plantains, mozzarella, onions and peppers)<br /> Carnicera (skirt steak, red beans, ripe plantains, avocado)<br /> »Marinera (grilled shrimp, citrus Creole slaw, avocado)<br /> Pollo griliao (gilled chicken, caramelized onions, peppers, tomatoes, mozzarella)<br /> Reina (chilled shredded chicken, avocado, lime, peppers)<br /> Fanny (fried sweet plantains, mozzarella, avocado)<br /> <br /> <em><strong>Other entrees</strong></em><br /> »Ajiaco (Andean potato soup, shredded chicken, corn, capers, soft fresh cheese, rice, avocado<br /> »Bandeja paisa <br /> Colombian-style cranberry beans, grilled skirt steak, chorizo, chicharron (crisp pork belly), rice, fried egg, avocado, ripe & green plantains<br /> <br /> <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em><br /> »Tres leches cake<br /> Flan
Deficiencies
Brighter street lighting would be very welcome.
For Best Results
You need to know a couple of words. "Hogao" is Colombian Creole sauce, like ours without the celery, cooked a bit softer. "Valluno" refers to the style of western Colombia. "Aji" denotes the presence of hot peppers.
Bonus Ratings
2
Attitude
1
Environment
3
Hipness
2
Local Color
2
Service
1
Value
1
Wine