Oak Oven
Anecdotes & Analysis
Not many people drive through Harahan or River Ridge en route to somewhere else. Maybe that's why through most of its history Harahan hasn't had many restaurants above the neighborhood-joint category. And not many of those, either. With a menu and style in sync with the hippest Italian restaurants in the area, Oak Oven's opening was bound to attract attention. It did, and that's almost the only problem facing you and me when it comes to eating here.
Backstory
Two years ago, chef and co-owner Adam Superneau immersed himself in the culture of Sicily for enough months to become almost disoriented (Italy can have that effect) but ultimately inspired. He and his two partners--lifelong friends and Blue Jays all--have unimpeachable New Orleans/Sicilian/food roots. John Matassa is the grandson of record producer-grocer Cosimo Matassa, one of the two or three most important figures in the history of New Orleans music. Thomas Macaluso's and Adam's forebears were also in the local grocery business. The three opened Oak Oven in late 2013. [caption id="attachment_42924" align="alignnone" width="480"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/OakOven-DrumfishPestoPasta-480x360.jpg" alt="Drum with pesto pasta and crabmeat." width="480" height="360" class="size-large wp-image-42924" /> Drum with pesto pasta and crabmeat.[/caption]
Dining Room
The restaurant is much too small for the crowds this outstanding food attracts. It was formerly the dine-in area of a Popeyes, with the floating ceiling and the tile floors removed to create a rustic effect. The walls are lined with photos of the owners' Sicilian ancestors. Oak Oven is just finished an outdoor dining area. The servers are happily hospitable, and the chef and partners make frequent visits to the dining room to check on things. [caption id="attachment_42923" align="alignnone" width="480"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/OakOven-VealPiccata-480x360.jpg" alt="Veal piccata." width="480" height="360" class="size-large wp-image-42923" /> Veal piccata.[/caption]
Why It's Essential
The centerpiece of Oak Oven is described exactly by its name. Pizza is the mainstay of the seemingly abbreviated menu, but all the other major Italian food groups are represented here. But this is not your standard big-appetite New Orleans-Italian eat place. The food shows up in modest, handsome presentations of pristine ingredients. They must be doing something right, because the main challenge is here is in getting a table. The old trick of showing up when it opens at five doesn't work, because everybody in Harahan eats at five.
Why It's Good
Start with pizza. It only takes five minutes to come out, and is great with wine or a cocktail. From there, you move from strength to strength, with fine work performed with house-made pasta; well-pounded white veal; herbal roasted chicken, crusty around the edges; and even a luscious daily soup. All this carries the flavor of Palermo (and I was just there, two months ago). Even the sandwiches are exciting. A chalkboard lists all the vegetables available that day that comes directly from local farms. [caption id="attachment_42921" align="alignnone" width="480"]<img src="http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/OakOven-PizzaSalsiccia-480x350.jpg" alt="Pizza Salsiccia, right out of the oak-fired oven." width="480" height="350" class="size-large wp-image-42921" /> Pizza Salsiccia, right out of the oak-fired oven.[/caption]
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em> »Soup of the day Fried eggplant, tomato-basil sauce »Shrimp and crabmeat, fire-roasted artichoke, lemon Wood-fired beef, gorgonzola, mushroom and red wine Caesar salad »Parmigiana salad (romaine, bacon, tomato, egg, olives) Spinach salad, apple, raisins, candied pecans, gorgonzola dolce, homemade pepper jelly »Arugula salad, cured tomato, cucumber, mint, feta, lemon vinaigrette ~ <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em> <em>Sandwiches on ciabatta:</em> »Rosemary roasted chicken, Fontina cheese, roasted red pepper, sweet onions Wood-roasted pork, tomato, spicy chile and fresh mozzarella Lamb meatballs, marjoram, tomato sauce, ricotta Thin-sliced steak, gorgonzola, wood-roasted onions and peppers Fried fish, shrimp, oysters, lettuce, tomato, tzatziki sauce Mushrooms, sauteed spinach, red onion, feta cheese, olive oil ~ <em>Wood-fired pizzas:</em> »Margherita (fresh mozzarella, tomato, basil, olive oil) Americano (pepperoni, tomato & mozzarella) »Formaggi (mozzarella, fontina, parmigiano, ricotta & tomato) »Salsiccia (spicy fennel sausage, roast peppers, capers, olive, tomato) Lamb meatball (tomato, sweet peppers, basil, red chile & ricotta) Maiale (roast pork, fennel sausage, smoked bacon and sweet onion) Shrimp and crabmeat, artichoke, red chile, oregano, garlic, white wine »Verdure (spinach, arugula, garlic, mushrooms, thyme, olive oil ~ <em>Pasta</em> »Penne, rosemary chicken, grilled mushrooms, spinach & garlic »Fresh frattura pasta, pork ragu, bay leaf, tomato, red chile Spaghetti, lamb meatballs, tomato sauce, sweet marjoram, ricotta Fresh fettuccine, cream, butter, Grana Padano cheese / »Eggplant, chicken or veal parmigiana, tomato-basil spaghetti »Veal piccata (lemon, butter, capers, cappellini pasta) Panneed veal, fresh fettucine Alfredo Gulf fish, crab, white wine, mushrooms, pesto angel hair pasta Fried Gulf fish, shrimp, oysters, potatoes and tzatziki sauce Wood-grilled New York strip, rosemary, sage, garlic, fried potatoes ~ <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em> Pine nut-caramel gelato Espresso gelato Chocolate gelato Mint gelato
Deficiencies
If this place continues to draw the clientele it does, they will have to move to a bigger place.
For Best Results
Even if it's hard to get your head around the idea, make a reservation. You might still have to wait a few minutes. Unless you eat like a bird, you will need at least two courses here. (The prices are in line with that.)
Bonus Ratings
3
Attitude
3
Hipness
2
Local Color
2
Service
2
Value
1
Wine
Holiday Ratings
0
Thanksgiving
2
New Year's Eve