Parran's Po-Boys
Anecdotes & Analysis
Full disclosure: Parran's is a longtime, heavy advertiser on my radio show. My ratings and reviews are approximately as they were years before that relationship began, but for those to whom this is an issue I must mention it.<br /> <br /> The correct spelling of the French word for "godfather" is actually "parrain." But after thirty-six years it's too late to change the name now.<br /> <br /> During the holidays, Parran's does a big business with frying turkeys and assembling all the traditional side dishes for those who don't want to cook. Throughout the year, it's a good source for trays of mini-muffulettas and finger sandwiches for meetings or parties.
Backstory
In New Orleans, your godfather is your parran (pah-RANH) if you have even a shred of French heritage. The original parran here was Dominick Impastato, a high school classmate of mine. He opened the place in 1975. Al Hornbrook has owned it for many years now, and much improved the food. Parran's claims to have invented the seafood muffuletta--a standard fried seafood sandwich on a muffuletta loaf.
Dining Room
Parran's renovation a few years ago made the dining areas brighter and more pleasant, but this has never been what you'd call a fancy place in which to dine. In this it has the perfect neighborhood cafe look. A small ordering area up front expands into a spacious, utilitarian dining room in the rear. Service is geared more to efficiency than nicety.
Why It's Essential
Few restaurants in the style of the old New Orleans neighborhood cafe exist in Metairie. Such restaurants are zoned out of neighborhoods.Even though it's in a strip mall in the Veterans Boulevard sprawl, Parran's is a fine example of the old-style poor boy shop. Indeed, it's been around longer than many shops in the old neighborhoods. And its style of cooking, surroundings and prices are all reminiscent of the great old poor boy makers of decades ago.
Why It's Good
Poor boy sandwiches--especially the roast beef--are the main specialty. Few poor boy shops cook their own meats in house these days. Parran's makes almost everything except the French bread in house. The seafood is fried to order--the telltale sign being not only crisp greaselessness, but the time it takes to finally appear. The bread is warmed for the poor boys--a rare touch, but an essential one. Parran's menu is more extensive than most, and its Italian dishes are better than you expect (although still short of great).
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Poor Boy Sandwiches</strong></em><br /> »Roast beef<br /> »Prime rib au jus, horseradish sauce<br /> »Ham<br /> »Grilled ham<br /> Ham and cheese<br /> »Grilled ham and cheese<br /> »J and M Special ham, roast beef and swiss<br /> »Pastrami, provolone, red sauce<br /> Turkey pastrami, provolone, red sauce<br /> »Meatball, provolone, red sauce<br /> Fried Eggplant, provolone, red sauce<br /> Veal cutlet, provolone, red sauce<br /> »Grilled or fried chicken, provolone, red sauce<br /> Veal cutlet, Swiss cheese, brown gravy<br /> Grilled chicken breast<br /> Blackened chicken breast<br /> Grilled or blackened fresh tuna steak<br /> »Grilled Italian sausage, provolone, red sauce<br /> »Hot sausage patties<br /> Smoked sausage<br /> Grilled Genoa salami<br /> Smoked turkey breast<br /> Grilled smoked turkey breast<br /> »Fried shrimp, oyster or catfish<br /> Fried beer batter crawfish tails<br /> Blackened shrimp or catfish<br /> Hamburger on French bread<br /> »F Burger (feta, sautéed red onions, Tiger sauce, bacon)<br /> Pulled pork poor boy, cole slaw, provolone, bbq sauce<br /> <em><strong>Muffulettas and Clubs</strong></em><br /> »Seafood muffuletta (fried oysters, shrimp, catfish, Cajun mayonnaise)<br /> »Italian muffuletta (ham, Genoa salami, pastrami, provolone, olive salad)<br /> Club sandwich<br /> Smoked turkey breast club<br /> Grilled chicken club<br /> Balsamic grilled chicken club<br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> Filet steak, fettuccine Alfredo<br /> Grilled steak salad<br /> »Panneed chicken breast, red sauce, mozzarella, sweet basil, angel hair pasta<br /> Panneed chicken breast poor boy<br /> »Veal Antonio (fried cutlet, pasta, lemon butter, *crabmeat)<br /> Veal Marsala with pasta<br /> »Pesto shrimp (sautéed in olive oil, pesto sauce, pasta, *crabmeat)<br /> Mirliton casserole (onions, celery, bell pepper, garlic, shrimp, bread crumbs, *crabmeat)<br /> »Red beans and rice with smoked or hot sausage, fried catfish, grilled pork chop, grilled or fried chicken, or blackened chicken<br /> Shrimp Creole<br /> Catfish Lorell (fried, with shrimp Creole)<br /> Seafood ravioli<br /> Fried chicken tenders plate<br /> »Fried shrimp, catfish, oyster or combo plate, with fries, potato salad, garlic bread<br /> Meatballs and spaghetti<br /> »Veal, chicken, or eggplant with provolone and red sauce and spaghetti<br /> »Grilled Italian sausage and spaghetti<br /> Fettuccine alfredo, with shrimp and crawfish tails, grilled chicken, blackened chicken, or pork chop<br /> Shrimp and crawfish Diane (white sauce, green onions, mushrooms, garlic, angel hair pasta)<br /> Grilled chicken and smothered green beans, brown rice<br /> Grilled yellow fin tuna steak<br /> »Grilled or blackened tuna, angel hair pasta<br /> <em><strong>Salads</strong></em><br /> Grilled, fried or blackened chicken salad<br /> Fried or blackened shrimp salad<br /> Grilled or blackened tuna salad<br /> Grilled shrimp remoulade salad<br /> <em><strong>Pizza</strong></em><br /> »Cheese pizza<br /> »Margherita pizza<br /> »Mediterranean pizza (garlic butter, spinach, mozzarella, feta, artichoke, onion)<br /> Grilled chicken alfredo pizza<br /> Blackened shrimp pizza<br /> <em><strong>Appetizers and Sides</strong></em><br /> French fries<br /> »Fried eggplant sticks, red sauce<br /> Cheese fries<br /> Potato salad<br /> Coleslaw<br /> »Fried pickles, ranch dressing<br /> Fried mozzarella sticks, red sauce<br /> Beer battered onion rings<br /> »Fried cauliflower, ranch dressing<br /> Smothered green beans and rice<br /> »Red beans and rice »Bread pudding
Deficiencies
They should slice the muffuletta meats thinner and ask whether the customer wants it heated or not--even though only purists like me prefer muffulettas at room temperature.
For Best Results
Don't come in a hurry. Made-to-order poor boys are not fast food. The Italian dishes are strictly for those who are really, really hungry. If you get the seafood muffuletta, inquire into the dressing possibilities. I like the bread toasted and covered with pickle slices, but almost any way is better than the standard Cajun mayo they'll apply if you don't state otherwise.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
2
Value