Port of Call
Backstory
The Port of Call opened in 1963. I got there when I was a junior in high school and was blown away. Returning infrequently now, I'm always surprised by how little the place has changed over the years, in both decor and flavor. There are few similar time warps. Since Hurricane Katrina, the business here seems to have risen tremendously. Be prepared for a long wait to be seated.
Dining Room
The front room is unambiguously a bar, surrounded by tables. The ropes hung across the ceiling appear to be part of the original decor. I would not want to see this room in bright light. The main dining room is more like a restaurant. The service is not what you could call attentive, but they get the job done sooner or later.
Why It's Essential
The archetype of a common New Orleans institution: a bar with a superior hamburger. To this day--even as name chefs open hamburger joints all over town--most of the city's great hamburgers are still found in bars. The Port of Call set the standard and still does.
Why It's Good
The hamburgers are made from fresh two-way chuck (the two best parts of that beef cut, with a minimum of junk) ground daily in the restaurant's commissary. They grill them thick and fat over a hot open fire and serve them with grated cheddar cheese on a normal-size bun, making the ratio of meat to bread very agreeable. The burgers are served with baked potatoes instead of fries. The steaks are only pretty good. The drinks--especially the tiki-style rum drinks--are generous and well made.
Most Interesting Dishes
House salad Schooner salad (like a chef's salad) »Hamburger<br /> »Filet mignon<br /> »Strip sirloin Ribeye
Deficiencies
One wonders what would come of a satellite restaurant serving exactly this food in a more accessible, larger location.
For Best Results
Understand that the Port of Call's reputation as having the best hamburger in New Orleans may lift your expectations unreasonably high. Remember: a hamburger can only go so high up the ladder of culinary accomplishment.
Bonus Ratings
1
Local Color
1
Value