Red Fish Grill
115 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70130, USA
French Quarter
The first block of Bourbon Street off Canal Street was almost a no-man's land after the major department stores closed. The first sign of life in lively scene there now was the opening of the Red Fish Grill, whose colorful digs and impressive casual cooking set off a trend. As if it had something further to prove, it was the first major restaurant in the French Quarter to reopen after Katrina, even though they had to use paper and plastic serviceware and bottled water even for dishwashing. It all made the statement that this somewhat wacky-looking restaurant was in earnest about its food. And it still is.
Anecdotes & Analysis
The first block of Bourbon Street off Canal Street was almost a no-man's land after the major department stores closed. The first sign of life in lively scene there now was the opening of the Red Fish Grill, whose colorful digs and impressive casual cooking set off a trend. As if it had something further to prove, it was the first major restaurant in the French Quarter to reopen after Katrina, even though they had to use paper and plastic serviceware and bottled water even for dishwashing. It all made the statement that this somewhat wacky-looking restaurant was in earnest about its food. And it still is.
Backstory
Ralph Brennan, who was present at the birth of the seminal Mr. B's, opened the Red Fish Grill in 1996. It was unusual for the Brennans in that it was much more casual than its other places. And it was the first Brennan establishment owned solely by one Brennan. When the Bourbon House--operated by Dickie Brennan's side of the family--opened with a somewhat similar seafood menu across the street, there was a bit of stress. As it turned out, both restaurants have done very well.
Dining Room
What once was the men's department of the old D.H. Holmes department store looks as if it had been bombed, patched up just enough to function, then painted and furnished as if by a street artist. Walls, floors, and tabletops are fancifully decorated by artist Luis Colmenares in a way that almost suggests a slick chain restaurant, but this is the one and only.
Why It's Essential
It's a casual seafood restaurant, but nothing like what those words usually imply. Frying, for example, is at most a footnote here. Grilling, on the other hand, is accomplished with a wood-burning grill. An oyster bar enhances the appetizer possibilities. It winds up being a lot like a gourmet bistro, both in terms of goodness and price, but in a very easygoing way.
Why It's Good
The menu shows nine different species of fish in its wood-burning grill repertoire. Almost all of that is fresh and local, which is more of a rarity these days than one might imagine. The cooking style leans more heavily on updated version of very old dishes than most places, and they pull these off well. The grilling is done deftly, with a generous application of Creole seasonings throughout.
Most Interesting Dishes
Seafood sampler (barbecue crab claws, shrimp & tasso fritters, Creole marinated shrimp) Shrimp & jalapeno hush puppies Alligator boudin balls, pear pepper jelly Seafood charcuterie board Barbecue oysters Raw oysters on the half shell Alligator sausage & seafood gumbo Redfish bisque Ponchatoula strawberry salad, arugula, red onions, preserved lemon vinaigrette <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em> Hickory-grilled fish (many varieties) or shrimp, with a choice of five sauces Sesame-crusted yellowfin tuna, shiitake mushrooms baby green beans, soy citrus sauce Grilled red snapper, roma tomatoes, tarragon-dijon vinaigrette Des allemands catfish with shrimp Creole Wood-grilled redfish & crawfish tails, tasso, wild mushroom Pontalba potatoes, lemon butter sauce Blackened black drum & herb crusted shrimp, corn macque choux, bacon-raised mustard greens Jumbo lump crab cake Creole jambalaya,risotto style, shrimp, andouille, grilled chicken, roasted tomatoes Barbecue shrimp & grits, andouille, sweet potato cheddar grits Pan roasted half chicken <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em> Double chocolate bread pudding Apple crumble pie White chocolate cheesecake Bananas foster ice cream cake Seasonal bread pudding
Deficiencies
I'm pleased to report that an often-stated criticism I had about the shortness of the menu has been remedied. It's just right now.
For Best Results
The Red Fish is very busy at lunchtime, with a mix of visitors and people who work downtown. It's also a packed house during any big tourism event, with its gateway-to-Bourbon Street location. The middle of the afternoon is the best time in those crowded times.
Bonus Ratings
2
Attitude
1
Environment
1
Hipness
2
Local Color
1
Service
1
Wine
Holiday Ratings
0
Thanksgiving
2
New Year's Eve